Garsdale, Rawtheydale, Cautley, Low Haygarth and West Baugh Fell

The start of the walk needed precise navigation for there were a number of tracks going off from Clough River Bridge. One had a sign showing the 'Sedgwick Trail' which was not our intended course. We crossed over the bridge to the north side and followed a marked track up through a copse and then across a field to High Fawes. From the small farmhouse we then followed over more fields to Dovecote Gill, the first of a number of interesting gills in the early part of the walk. Already on the higher ground we were becoming exposed to enticing views of the Howgill Fells. They are a series of remarkable hills which always draw me to them, this time just to view from a distance but on other occasions on foot amidst them. We soon passed more farmsteads at Wilkinstile and Fellgate before heading to another called Sarthwaite. This one was derelict, a shame as it stood in a perfect place with rolling pasture around and the best views of the Howgill range to the west. Surely it will not be derelict long, a developer should be in like a shot.

The walking over the pasture fields, tracks and bridleways from one farmstead to the next was wonderful with the brilliant sunlight of the Autumn day helping to exemplify the startling turning rusty colours of the trees. Grass was still a rich green despite the dying sun of summer past and the hills were as always, the Howgill Fells a mix of green, brown and grey while West Baugh Fell behind us was entirely different, a complete carpet of straw colour, all the grasses on it in their autumn coat. We descended from Sarthwaite to Hebblethwaite Gill and then across a small hill to Cross Hall, home to a caravan site which we walked though to follow the roadside of the A683 for exactly a kilometer before walking down a track to cross over the River Rawthey at Crook Holme. We then spent the next two hours in close company with the river on the eastern edge of the Howgill Fells on our left hand side as we enjoyed walking in scenic wonder. We crossed the river twice via footbridges and the crossed Cautley Holme Beck to arrive at Low Haygarth. Two and a half hours had passed since we had set off, it seemed much less, so I took Jez and Dave to the Cross Keys Temperance Inn, without alcohol which we had no desire for anyway. Between us we enjoyed Tea, Coffee, Ginger Beer and Nettle Wine. As we supped we also drank in the view of Cautley Spout, a favourite place of all three of us. While we took refreshments at the Cross Keys Jez had chosen the return route. An ascent of West Baugh Fell was not on now, it would be a long day and dark long before the finish should we attempt it so instead he fashioned a contour of West Baugh Fell at around 300m. We started out on the return journey by following the A683 for about 200 metres before climbing to the fell side via High House and Bluecaster Side. Now the adventure of mid height navigation without clear paths began.

First Dave and Jez chose the traverse round Fairy Gill to Taythes. I was drawn to Taythes directly in a bee-line. Taythes House was in the most exquisite setting, practically perfect. When Dave and Jez finished their traverse and met up with me they agreed. They also agreed my bee-line was the right idea. We then tracked past the house and above the south side of the gill until the cut lessened at which point we descended to water level to cross over. Here we consented and agreed it was the place for lunch. Now we were in for a treat Dave had been promising for a while as he treated Jez and I to a gourmet feast of Vine Leaves stuffed with Rice. Resolutely Jez and I took our medicine. The aftertaste was less harsh than the initial hit. I don't think the delicacy will enter our regular diets though!

After our OK food experience we resumed our adventure over West Baugh Fell terrain which was simply brilliant, a walk as good as most popular routes and one better than a lot. The views were worth it alone, we all agreed we were taking in some striking panoramas. We continued on level sections in full flow and then down and up a couple of pesky gills which came on us at the last moment. These were Whinny Gill and Nor Gill, both reminding us we were on a proper walk and not a jolly day out. We then reached another but we knew this one, having crossed it downstream earlier in the walk.

This last sudden descent and ascent was to cross Hebblethwaite Gill. We had done so about 5 hours earlier about 750 metres downstream. The crossing of Hebblethwaite Gill for the second time heralded our departure from the fell. A few hundred metres further on we came to the farmstead at fell side again and then we followed our course back from which we had originally set out. Highlight of this final section were the lovely views to the drumlin hills of the Frostrow and Middleton Fells, surely a place for future exploration. For now our final experience was to find a Soul Barn at High Fawes, a night clubbing spot for the locals many will not know about. I bet many a good party has been had at High Fawes. Our good time party had been the walk, an unplanned improvisation which turned out to be a wonderful adventure. I can't wait to do something similar again soon. I am sure Jez and Dave will be up for it.