Cannock Chase, Shugborough Estate and Sherbrook Valley

A Medieval Hunting Ground - To an 18th century mansion in a wide, shallow river valley

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Statistics and Files
Start: Seven Springs Distance: 7.8 miles (12.6 km) Climbing: 164 metres
Grid Ref: SK 00463 20587 Time: 3-4 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Cannock Chase
Statistics
Start: Seven Springs Distance: 7.8 miles (12.6 km)
Climbing: 164 metres Grid Ref: SK 00463 20587
Time: 3-4 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: Cannock Chase, which was designated in 1958 as an 'Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty', was once a great hunting ground for kings from the days of the Saxon Kingdom of Mercia. It was a favourite place for Henry II, who hunted from Radmore Lodge. However, in 1281 Edward decreed that all the wolves should be killed and the days of the Royal Forest were soon to be over; the Chase became the property of the Bishop of Lichfield. With the insatiable demand for charcoal for the iron industry until the early 19th century, much of the woodland was felled to create open heathland. Today, the Chase covers some 300,000 acres of wild heathlands interspersed with woodlands.

Essex Bridge spanning the River TrentEssex Bridge spanning the River Trent
Shugborough HallShugborough Hall

The region escaped much enclosure because the soil is gravelly and was considered too poor for agriculture. It did, however, support a type of grey faced sheep peculiar to the Chase and Cannock was once a thriving market town.

There are layers of coal under the surface. A few years ago, many mine sites could be seen from the high land, the loftiest point is 800 feet (244 metres) above sea level. With the decline of the industry, mining has all but finished in the region.

With so much industrial despoilation around Cannock Chase, it is surprising that the area retains so much unspoilt grandeur. Today, many of the acres are administered by the Forestry Commission, which has managed plantations of Scots and Corsican pines since the 1920s.

Near Seven Springs, at the start of the walk, are small pools where herds of fallow deer come off the Chase to drink. The species came from Asia Minor and the Mediterranean area and is thought to have been brought to these shores by the Romans.

Further on the route goes over the River Trent by a cobble-stone bridge. The plaque on the bridge reads 'erected by public subscription', but mainly by the liberality of Joseph Weetman in the years 1887-88.

A straight lane leads to the Trent and Mersey Canal. This canal was designed by Thomas Brindley and completed in 1777. Much of the trade in coal carried by canal came from Midlands mines. Now this is a favourite place for colourful holiday craft and the waterway provides good spot for anglers and a pleasant tranquil tour path for walkers.

After leaving the canal, the River Trent is crossed again, this time over Essex Bridge, a narrow 14-arch bridge, designed for pack horses in the 17th century. There were originally 40 arches to take the route over the once marshy ground, but even in its truncated state, it is still the longest pack-horse bridge in England.

The attractive parkland of Shugborough is just over the river, with Shugborough Hall and Museum (housed in the former stables away to the right). The gardens have interesting Victorian terraces and rose beds are a special feature. The drive leads past the Georgian park farm with its collection of rare animals and classical and rather bizarre monuments, many erected by the English architect James 'Athenian' Stuart.

Permission was given for the mainline railway to go through the parkland in the last century, but it goes through a tunnel to minimise its intrusion. The tunnel entrances were embellished by Egyptian and medieval designs.

Woodland trail in Sherbrook ValleyWoodland trail in Sherbrook Valley
Stepping Stones across Sher BrookStepping Stones across Sher Brook

In the Chase proper, the route joins the pretty Sherbrook Valley at an idyllic spot called Stepping Stones, where children love to splash and chase across the water. There is a picnic site here with benches, tables and a grassed area. Alongside the brook on the hillside to the left is Dick Slee's Cave. An 18th century hermit, he lived here with only a tame hare as a companion. Some say he left home because of his debts; others because of his raucous and nagging wife.

The track gradually climbs up the valley. The stones under foot are round and smooth. It is estimated that the pebble beds which formed Cannock Chase were laid down some 180 million years ago.

There is a wide assortment of natural features to be seen on the walk. In the lowland valley of the River Trent and the canal, water birds such as ducks, Canada geese, coots and scurrying moorhens can be seen. Swifts and martins swoop low over the still canal waters to catch insects and the elusive Kingfisher may be spotted.

In the animal kingdom, the terrain suits the water voles. The canal is lined with willows, which help to consolidate the banks, rushes, reeds and the purple willow Herb. Fishermen hunt the coarse fish - pike, perch and roach. A herd of deer may be spotted at dawn or dusk when it emerges to feed on grasses, leaves, shoots and berries.

Other animals on the Chase include rabbits, foxes, badgers, stoats, snakes (both adders and grass snakes) and squirrels. The rare red squirrel breeds in some of the woodlands. Although most trees are softwood pines grown commercially, there are many remnants of the ancient forests, including old oaks, alders and birches that favour the damper lands near the brooks.

There are vast areas of bracken and bilberries can be gathered in the autumn. The heathers are a pretty sight in the late summer months. On the marshy lands, sedges and reeds thrive in the damp conditions.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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