Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk — Stage 11

Ten days behind us and with two remaining, spirits are high. A good night out in the town in Keswick was quickly forgotten at the start of today though, as we faced a stiff roadside climb from Rosthwaite to Honister Hause. And it was tough dragging myself up the hill after Seatoller. One too many last night, I think! Eventually I followed the two trailblazers to the top, and at the slate factory in Honister Hause we left the road and followed the dismantled tramway once used to bring the slate down from the fells to Fleetwith, where fantastic views of the High Stile Ridge with lakes to either side could be seen. From here we turned temporarily south to flank the impressive Grey Knotts and track on a level ridge towards Seavy Knott. At this point we could have taken the High Stile alternative but declined and dropped steeply and precariously at times on scree to the isolated Black Sail Hut Youth Hostel at the deserted end of Ennerdale Forest.

After Black Sail we walked for over 4 laborious miles following a ranger's road through the uninspiring coniferous Ennerdale Forest. I was bored silly, and only relieved by the anticipation of Ennerdale Water and our final evening in Ennerdale Bridge. After the fantastic views on the Lakeland fells, this section was not nice.

Note: The weather was great today, and after staying at height on the High Stile Ridge five years later during my 1999 walk, I wish Dave and Steve had taken the decision to do this alternative. It is much better than what was to follow, and if the weather is anything but awful I recommend you do it. It is demanding but not too difficult if taken easily, and it cuts out the entire forest dirge.

After the most boring and mentally painful hour of the entire walk, the forest was overcome. I was relieved, as were the boys, and we were welcomed from leaving the darkness of the forest by the beautiful sight of Ennerdale Water with the High Stile Range to its left and the Pillar Range to its right. We quickly made our way across to the southern bank of Ennerdale Water to start our enjoyable walk along its edge. We walked in glorious sunshine to the outcrop of Robin Hood's Seat where we took our final break of the day. We stayed for a while and had a snack before walking through woods and then alongside roads into Ennerdale Bridge. It had been a hard but super walk today (forest walk apart), and when we found our accommodation Steve fell asleep in an armchair within seconds!