Wainwright's Coast to Coast Walk (West to East) — Stage 7

Unfortunately, another day of pain. My knee and heel pain (second skin!) had abated somewhat, but my toe had swollen up further, so much so that I could not put my regular boot on. I ended up walking in my Rockwood left boot and Chris Brasher right boot today. Deke said “Don't tell anyone in Knaresborough or my cred will go right down!” I set off walking very gingerly today and we quickly abandoned our intended high route for the easier Swaledale river walk to Reeth. I am glad we did, as I encountered weasels in the wild for the first time in my life, and a chaffinch almost fed from Deke's hands near Ivelet Bridge. Both meetings were an amazing experience.

Despite the pain in my big toe, the walk along the Swale was lovely, although by the time we reached Gunnerside the strain had left me cream crackered! A delicious blue Wensleydale cheese sandwich restored some energy and I was OK for another 2 miles. At Long Row though I was wilting again and we took another break by the river. Here we were accompanied by sand martins swooping to and fro. Onwards again to Grinton Lodge. A hard slog, but after crossing the Scabba Wath Bridge it was onto the moor, head down time and driving the feet to the youth hostel.

The hostel of Grinton Lodge is in a lovely setting. It's a kind of castle lodge building, pleasing to the eye. At dinner Deke finished the day off with three bowls of lentil soup and a hearty meal. I await the complimentary snores.

I was disappointed to miss the prescribed route today as it includes Swinner Gill Lead Mines, Gunnerside Gill, and the eerie Old Gang Smelting Mills, great examples of the past local industry in Swaledale. This route is recommended for all historians of local cultures and ways of life.