Elterwater, Skelwith Force and Colwith Force

It had been raining overnight and was still doing so as I ate breakfast in my Ambleside accommodation. The weather forecast wasn't promising either, and as I ate I knew there was no chance of heading onto the high fells for my final day's walking on this trip (I had planned the Coledale Horseshoe, but that would have to wait). Out came the map!

I wanted a low-level walk of around five miles with plenty of interesting features close to Ambleside. "What is best to see after rain?" I mused. Powerful streams cascading from the fells immediately came to mind, so I scoured the map for waterfalls. It didn't take long to spot Skelwith Force marked with a big blue star on the Explorer map. A little closer inspection revealed neighbouring Colwith Force. Both waterfalls are named on the Ordnance Survey map, so I knew they would be significant features.

Linking them into an interesting circular walk via Elter Water maintained the water theme. Conveniently, a car park sits close to the bridge spanning Great Langdale Beck in Elterwater village. I set off eastward along the Cumbria Way alongside Elter Water. Despite the dark skies, the views across the water toward the Langdale Pikes were stunning.

The walk linking Elterwater and Skelwith Bridge must be one of the finest short strolls in Lakeland, winding through fields beside the river, close by Elter Water, and through woodland. I thoroughly enjoyed it despite the inclement conditions, with Skelwith Force being the immediate highlight.

There is something about the majesty of falling water that captures my attention. I am hooked as soon as I hear it, drawn in like a fish on an angler's line. Skelwith Force was not as large as I expected given the roar that drew me toward it, but it was formidably powerful as the infant River Brathay was squeezed through a one-metre gap to tumble over a two-metre ledge. The waterfall was noisier than usual due to the rain, and I lingered for five minutes watching the angry performance.

After the thrill of Skelwith Force, I walked into Skelwith Bridge and browsed the Kirkstone Slate Galleries, where the craftsmanship on display was genuinely impressive. Leaving Skelwith Bridge, the rain stopped as I walked through fields toward Low Colwith, and the clouds began lifting off the lower fells.

Passing Park Farm, I entered Tongue Intake Plantation. An information board explained I was walking through sessile oak woodland. As before, my attention was soon captured by the sound of rushing water, drawing me onward to Colwith Force.

Colwith Force is truly awesome. The waterfall drops in several stages over a total height of about 40 feet, with the final double spout being its most spectacular feature. Nestled in beautiful woodland, it is easily one of the most enchanting places I have ever visited in Lakeland. I stayed for ages and didn't want to leave, eventually walking away with reluctance—carrying the sight, but not just the memory.

Though an anticlimax after such a spectacle, the remaining walk over High Hacket and through Fletcher's Wood along a bridleway back to Elterwater was delightful. But I couldn't get Colwith Force out of my mind—nor did I want to!