Green Gable and Great Gable from Seathwaite

It was during the May Bank Holiday weekend, shortly after a significant birthday milestone, when I decided that seven years was too long a spell not to have ventured up Great Gable. Seven years prior, I had taken my girlfriend Lil on her first real Lake District walk. It was a punishing introduction back then, and she had struggled.

This time, Lil accompanied me again for her second Lake District walk—now as my wife. With memories of that painful first attempt, Lil was understandably apprehensive, but I promised I wouldn't blaze ahead. I couldn't have anyway, as this was my first proper walk in over six months and I was far from peak fitness! Fortunately, she had much better footwear this time. The signs were good as we drove on a fantastic morning from Cockermouth through Lorton Dale and over Honister Pass, feeling reassured after hearing a promising weather forecast on the radio.

We parked close to Seathwaite Farm, beating the crowds at this immensely popular walking gateway. Lil quickly changed and prepared to set off. I took somewhat longer—as I always do, ending up the packhorse laden with spare layers, provisions, maps, compass, GPS, wallet, coins, and car keys!

After a brief false start walking past the farm turn-off, we retraced our steps and walked straight through the farm buildings, heading west toward the foot of Sourmilk Gill. During our first attempt seven years ago, Lil had raced up the gill trying to keep pace with me, reaching the top exhausted, dehydrated, and unable to recover. This time, I instructed her to pace herself. To her credit, she did so brilliantly, combining steady climbing and scrambling up the gill with enthusiasm and caution. I could tell she was actually enjoying the ascent—a great start for both of us!

We climbed alongside Sourmilk Gill, pausing regularly to absorb the unfolding vistas. Eventually, we reached the Seathwaite Slabs to rest. It was sunny, tranquil, and beautiful as we enjoyed drinks and energy bars beside the clear, running water. Unlike our previous visit, Lil was fully refreshed and eager to continue.

The gradient leveled off for a spell as we rounded Base Brown via Gillercomb—a peaceful, reflective section before the next ascent toward Green Gable. As we skirted south below Gillercomb Head, the climbing resumed, but both Lil and I took it in our stride. Soon we intersected the path coming up from Honister and Brandreth, where our solitude was momentarily interrupted by a group of loud, designer-clad walkers, followed closely by a work colleague phoning to check my availability for a meeting the following week!

Clearing the phone call, we pushed on to the summit of Green Gable and prepared to drop across Windy Gap. On our previous crossing, Windy Gap lived up to its name with howling gales, but today it was entirely benign. Crossing with ease, we took a deep breath and began the scramble up Great Gable itself.

The scrambling was great fun—never overly demanding, but engaging. Reaching the summit plateau, we bypassed the chatty group camped right by the trig point and lunched just out of earshot, enjoying expansive northern views toward Ennerdale, Buttermere, Crummock Water, and the distant Scottish hills beyond the Solway Firth.

After lunch, we strolled around the summit perimeter, peering down at the dramatic natural rock pillars of the Great Napes. We admired the towering presence of Scafell Pike and Scafell across the valley, before turning our gaze toward Wast Water and Wasdale. Eventually, I turned my thoughts toward the descent.

As I scanned for the descent path, Lil playfully called a halt—she was enjoying herself too much to end the day! Suitably impressed with her mountain turnaround, we located the path down and began the long, stepped descent toward Styhead Tarn.

Unlike our previous descent here when Lil was thoroughly exhausted, this time she strode out comfortably. Aside from a comical slip into a boggy puddle that left her with a damp backside, she smiled and hummed tunes all the way down to Styhead Tarn.

From Styhead Tarn, we followed Styhead Gill downstream past Greenhow Knott and descended the pitched path down to Stockley Bridge. A final level stroll alongside the rushing rapids of Grains Gill brought us back to the car. We both felt remarkably fresh—and sporting impressive sun tans to rival any Mediterranean holiday!