Mardale Head, Branstree, Selside Pike and Haweswater

The objective of this walk was two of the less-visited Wainwright Fells which command a charming position overlooking Haweswater Reservoir. Not always the case though, for the huge reservoir was artificially raised by 95 feet over the site of the natural lake. I wish I had seen the valley before the Goliath-sized dam was built! Still, the valley retains a singular charm, and it was a beautiful spring day when Lil and I arrived to undertake the walk.

Lil had never been to the Haweswater and Mardale area before. She was instantly struck by its charm and was in great spirits, making her a willing walking partner as we parked at Mardale Head to begin. We set off to ascend the high ground via Gatescarth Pass, and although we were soon huffing and puffing, we continued up in good form, keeping our eyes on the cloud ahead as it lifted off the path-head and dispersed into the brilliant blue sky.

After a steady climb up the pass with regular pauses to catch our breath, we entered the cloud level at the head of Gatescarth Pass. By this point, we had climbed 330 metres. Catching our breath once more, we left the track and turned 90 degrees anti-clockwise, heading north-east along a fence line to the summit of Branstree.

As Wainwright observed, the summit is a featureless plateau, but it occupies a prominent junction at the head of three valleys: Mardale, Swindale, and Longsleddale. Despite its unassuming top, attaining the 713-metre height was deeply rewarding. Once there, we relaxed, soaked in the views, and enjoyed a picnic lunch in the glorious spring sunshine.

After our picnic break, we enjoyed a fantastic crossing from Branstree to Selside Pike, our second Wainwright objective. The underfoot conditions were dry, springy, and delightful—a stretch of fell walking lasting just over a mile. At Selside Pike, we met two walkers and their dog visiting from Penrith, who were similarly relishing the cloudless skies.

After a brief chat, we continued by dropping from Selside Pike toward the Old Corpse Road via High Blake Dodd and High Birkin Knott, successfully avoiding any marshy ground. Reaching the historic Old Corpse Road, the walking became wonderfully smooth once again.

The walk westward along the Old Corpse Road was delightful. For the first kilometer it was virtually level, allowing us to stroll at leisure and admire the surrounding hills and the distant Eden Valley to the east. We also enjoyed local wildlife encounters, including adult birds gracefully diverting our attention from nesting areas and pools teeming with active tadpoles—surprisingly early for early April!

Eventually, the path initiated a steeper descent at the head of Rowantreethwaite Beck, requiring more careful footwork. Soon we passed some old abandoned buildings, which prompted Lil to remark that the setting would make a perfect holiday home!

Beyond the stone ruins, the descent steepened further, bringing us alongside two lovely waterfalls fed by Rowantreethwaite Beck and Hopgill Beck before they flow into Haweswater Reservoir. The striking views of The Rigg on Haweswater and the rising ridge of High Street repeatedly drew our eyes away from our footing.

Reaching the road at the foot of the descent, we faced a choice: follow the tarmac back to Mardale Head or take the reservoir path. The choice was simple—no road walking for us!

Have you ever experienced a mirage? During the lakeside return walk, Lil began to tire and, as a result of her fatigue, became convinced the car was receding rather than getting closer. I was suddenly afflicted too; the hot spring descent had depleted our reserves, turning post-climb euphoria into a quiet longing for the walk to end. It measured precisely one mile, but that level mile felt longer than the initial climb of 500 metres! Nevertheless, we had enjoyed a truly glorious walk.