High Tove, Armboth Fell, High Seat, Bleaberry Fell and Walla Crag

Alfred Wainwright was not particularly complimentary about these fells. In fact, he was somewhat derisory, claiming the upland area as the boggiest in all of Lakeland. True, there are sections that justify his claim of being sodden for all but the driest parts of the year, but it would be a travesty if his remarks put off fell walkers from visiting.

The views alone are magnificent from this most central high ground in the Lake District, looking north, east, south, and west. I loved my time up here, spending most of it in absolute solitude apart from a single encounter with another fell walker. Let's go for a walk, shall we?

This walk is linear. My wife Lil drove me to the start point at Watendlath. The drive itself was an adventure as Lil negotiated tight bends on a very narrow road with stone walls closing in. At one point I exclaimed, "You're too close to the wall on my side!" to which she retorted, "Shut up Michael, I know what I am doing." She did! After safely depositing me in Watendlath, she headed off for a relaxing browse around the shops in Keswick.

I set off from the National Trust car park in Watendlath on the 250-metre ascent to High Tove, my first of five Wainwright fells for the day. The initial climb followed a stone path until I reached a gate beside trees, where the firm path ended. I tracked directly east across squelchy but firm ground toward High Tove. Reaching the summit, I studied Armboth Fell, my next objective.

Wainwright classed Armboth Fell as the most centrally situated of all Lakeland fells, though he asserted its flat, desolate top was a quagmire of heather and moss. Still, having recorded it, I had to visit! It required only a small drop and short climb from High Tove. Bounding across the springy ground, I reached the rocky outcrop on top of Armboth Fell, celebrated with a refreshing drink, and tracked west back to the summit of High Tove.

High Tove completed, my next goal was High Seat, a prominence visible one mile directly to the north. Between the two highs lay the notorious low that Wainwright described as squelchy. He wasn't wrong! The hike between High Tove and High Seat involved negotiating bogs, peat hags, and deep swamp. At the bottom of the bowl, I sank in up to my knees, briefly recalling the quagmire scene in The Hound of the Baskervilles!

Heaving myself out onto a peaty bank, I squeezed the water from my socks before proceeding with greater caution. Gaining height on the ascent to High Seat, the going eased. I spotted another intrepid walker on the same path, and we exchanged waves—a hiker's mutual recognition of effort.

At High Seat, I rested at the trig point while the other hiker ate lunch on an adjoining outcrop. The panorama was magnificent, taking in all the major southern peaks: Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, Scafell, Great Gable, Pillar, and Robinson.

Reluctantly leaving High Seat, I continued north toward Bleaberry Fell. Mindful of my footing, I enjoyed a dry run across the plateau and arrived at the summit for lunch. The other walker reached my point shortly after, and we chatted. We agreed that while the range retains water, its lush undulations and spectacular views are fascinating, and the lack of crowds is a huge bonus.

He hailed from Blackburn—as did Wainwright. Discussing our routes, we found we were both heading for Walla Crag and dropping down to Rakefoot near Keswick. After pleasant goodbyes, he forged ahead.

Bleaberry Fell marks the end of the north-central ridge. From the summit, the descent drops westward toward Cat Gill and my fifth and final Wainwright fell, Walla Crag. Derwent Water and Bassenthwaite Lake came clearly into view below, flanked by the Skiddaw range.

While I enjoyed absolute solitude across the rest of the fells, arriving at Walla Crag brought the hordes: families, lovers, tourists, and pets. I didn't begrudge them visiting such a beauty spot, but I didn't linger—a quick glance at the view, a swift photo, and I was off down the easy path toward Rakefoot and my waiting wife!