High Force, Gowbarrow Fell and Aira Force

Dave and I drove over to the Lake District from Harrogate in anticipation of five great days of walking. In the evening, Steve was meeting us for our first walking holiday since he emigrated to New Zealand 18 months prior, accompanied by his son-in-law Chris. It was shaping up to be a fantastic holiday.

For now, Dave and I wanted to get a good half-day walk under our belts. This route looked just the ticket—a four-mile warm-up with an honest bit of climbing up to one of Wainwright's less lofty fells that promises great views. The weather was fair but unpredictable in the erratic summer of 2009, raining lightly during our drive over Bowes Moor and drizzling as we arrived at the National Trust car park on the shores of Ullswater.

While the shower passed, we visited the cafe for coffee and buns. The rain stopped just as we finished, signaling the start of our walk. We set off from the car park, following the path past the National Trust Information Centre and heading north into the woodland.

Because of Aira Force's popularity, crowds usually flock directly to the main waterfall, but I wanted to save Aira Force for our grand finale. Instead, Dave and I crossed a wooden footbridge and took the higher fork through the woodland, keeping us on course for High Force waterfall.

The woodland journey grew quieter as we climbed higher, away from the tourist crowds heading for Aira Force. It was their loss, for High Force proved deeply impressive upon arrival, with the gushing waters of Riddings Beck powerfully roaring over the drop following recent rainfall.

After watching the cascade, we continued through the woods to a gate opening into a field where Gowbarrow Fell rose immediately above us to the right. We soon caught up with a young couple who asked if there was a path leading down to Dockray and back to the car park. While such a path existed, it would require a long tarmac road walk.

Instead, we outlined our plan to climb Gowbarrow Fell and descend via its eastern and southern flanks. They decided to join us, making Mark and Natalie from Fife our new walking companions for the remainder of the route.

Bearing right over a fence, we took a direct beeline uphill toward the fell top. Being our first walk of the break, the incline was tough, prompting regular rest stops. These breaks were richly rewarded as the Patterdale reach of Ullswater opened out to the south and Blencathra displayed its majesty to the north. Reaching the trig point, we enjoyed a well-earned lunch break in the sunshine.

Of Gowbarrow Fell, Wainwright noted in his pictorial guide: "Flowers, heather and bilberries bloom on the pleasant little ridge where stands the summit cairn." It is indeed a serene spot.

After lunch, we headed east toward the shooting lodge (which proved elusive!), locating the path south toward Collier Hagg and Memorial Seat. Here, the magic of Ullswater opened in all its splendor: we could trace the lake from Pooley Bridge past Hallin Fell down to Patterdale. We lingered as intermittent sunbeams cast a moving picture across the water—truly wonderful!

Descending from Gowbarrow Fell past Bernard Pike and Hind Crag, the narrow path was hemmed in by ferns. Reaching the woodland, we approached Aira Force for the final spectacle of the walk. The waterfall boomed out a crescendo of noise as we approached.

Joining afternoon sightseers at the viewing area, we watched the waters plunge 20 metres in a misty spray. After taking photos, we returned to the car park where Dave and I bade farewell to Mark and Natalie. A brilliant walk that set a high bar for the holiday!