Great Crag and Grange Fell from Rosthwaite

As part of the boys' 2nd annual Lake District walking adventure (August 2010) and following yesterday's Langdale Pikes epic, we were all in need of a good walk, but not quite such a monster! Since it was a Sunday, we decided a nice climb to mid-Lakeland heights followed by an upland exploration was just the ticket.

With two Wainwright fells to visit during the round (and initial thoughts of a detour to Castle Crag), we set off in Rosthwaite on a hot, balmy summer's day. Recent weeks had brought plenty of rain, so we were thrilled with the glorious weather. After heading the wrong way out of the village for 100 yards and turning back past bemused locals, we walked along Stonethwaite Beck upstream for over a kilometre to Stonethwaite Bridge. The riverside trees provided welcome shade from the beating sun.

Soon we left the level track to make our ascent toward the fells above via a route through trees to Lingy End. We were all glad of the shade, as it was a hot slog with 230 metres of ascent captured in just 550 metres of distance—over a 40% incline that felt like climbing a long flight of stairs!

Breaks in the tree canopy provided superb views toward Honister Hause and Fleetwith Pike, a mountain that remains a wonderful natural sight despite its quarrying. Emerging from the tree line at Lingy End, the heat intensified.

The next phase was a lovely, fairly level passage between the heather-rich outcrops of White Crag and High Crag as we headed toward Green Combe. Walking alongside Willygrass Gill, Chris, Rick, and Steve pressed on while Dave and I stopped to cool down in the refreshing waters.

As we lingered, Chris beckoned us quietly so as not to disturb something in the gill: a dragonfly was laying eggs by making bounds up and down onto the water with its tail, depositing a single egg with each dive. I captured it on video—absolute animal magic! Afterward, we strode on to delightful Dock Tarn.

We reached Dock Tarn and agreed it was the perfect spot for an early Sunday lunch. As Wainwright described it, Dock Tarn is "a jewel deserving a sweeter name." He was spot on. The water was plentiful with young trout fry, and a graceful duck glided past us without alarm.

The tranquility was briefly interrupted when a group of young adults arrived with unleashed dogs that bounded into the water after a thrown stick. Soon after, one dog spotted a Herdwick sheep and gave chase, prompting angry shouts from the group. We quietly resumed our walk, leaving the argument behind while the clever sheep remained entirely unbothered.

After passing the commotion, Steve and Dave headed north along the main path while Chris, Rick, and I cut off west to claim Great Crag. I wanted to experience Wainwright's description firsthand: "one of those modest fells which seldom seem to invite attention... On the right sort of day (warm sunshine) and at the right time of year (August) the top of Great Crag, carpeted with lovely heather, is quite the right place to be." We did exactly as he recommended, and it was perfection!

Rejoining the main track, we caught up with Steve and Dave near Brund Fell. Rather than taking the main track down to Bowdergate Gill, I led us over boggy terrain to Puddingstone Bank—a wetter, more direct route that preserved our height. A series of rocky ledges naturally led us to Jopplety How and onto the summit of Brund Fell, an interesting multi-faceted rock tower forming the highest point on Grange Fell.

Here we ate a second lunch while trying to help a family recover an errant grandfather who was wandering around looking for them! Skipping Castle Crag due to the intense heat, we descended via Swanesty How, Birkett's Leap, Resting Stone, Belt Knott, and Frith Wood back to the Borrowdale road and into Rosthwaite. After changing, I drove everyone on a scenic, air-conditioned tour of Honister Pass and Newlands. A brilliantly hot and memorable Sunday walk!