The Kentmere Horseshoe is a brilliant Lake District walk from Kentmere taking in seven spectacular Wainwright mountains: Yoke, Ill Bell, Frostwick, Mardale Ill Bell, Harter Fell, Kentmere Pike, and Shipman Knotts.
Summary: This splendid walk of just over 12 miles is a true test of fitness, featuring seven Wainwright fells around the Kentmere Valley. Highlights include the roller-coaster west ridge over Yoke, Ill Bell, and Frostwick, a crossing of High Street, and reaching the milestone 100th Wainwright summit on Harter Fell.
The Walk Report
It was a spectacular morning—one of the first days of spring, and the sky above was a brilliant blue. After a harsh winter, I had been waiting for this day: a perfect spring day promising sunshine and temperatures around 18°C, the true kickoff to the walking season. I made the journey from Harrogate to Kendal for breakfast, stocking up on energy before driving to the valley of Kentmere.
Arriving in Kentmere, I searched for a parking spot near the church next to the village phone box. Hurriedly donning my walking gear, I set off heading due west toward Crabtree Brow. Before starting the climb, I sought out Badger Rock, a solitary boulder in the highest field resembling a badger's face.
Walking from Kentmere village to Garburn PassNearing the top of Garburn Pass
I soon left habitation behind on the quiet climb past Crabtree Brow toward Garburn Pass, leading onto the west ridge of the Kentmere Horseshoe. Pausing frequently to catch my breath on my first real ascent of the year and to drink in the views toward Buck Crag, I reached Garburn Nook and took a longer rest in the rising spring heat.
Proceeding due north toward Yoke, I was buzzed by two fighter jets jetting out of the Kentmere valley over the ridge toward Windermere—capturing them on camera was a lucky bonus! Walking comfortably in a T-shirt at over 700 metres in March felt fantastic.
Approaching Buck Crag from Garburn NookYoke is straight ahead
Nearing Yoke, I encountered other walkers, and I soon reached my first Wainwright of the day. However, the stiff climb caught up with me as cramp suddenly set into both calves. Needing an enforced rest, I aimed for the magnificent conical peak of Ill Bell, praised by Wainwright as "a graceful cone" on a ridge that is "probably the most popular fell walk east of Kirkstone."
Sitting on Ill Bell provided gorgeous views of Windermere and the western fells, acting as eye therapy. Unfortunately, on the steep descent toward Frostwick, I stumbled and fell hard onto a rock, scraping my back and right arm quite severely. Luckily my rucksack took the brunt, but my unprotected T-shirt arm was left with two grazed patches. Taking extra care thereafter, I continued onward.
Time for a breather on YokeFollowing the ridge from Yoke to Ill Bell
The ridge from Ill Bell toward FrostwickLooking from Frostwick to Thornthwaite Crag
After Frostwick, I joined the broad sweeping ridge of High Street, once a Roman road and an 18th-century horse racing track! Strolling across the wide plateau in calm, sunny weather was a wonderful contrast to previous rainy crossings.
Reaching Mardale Ill Bell, I hit my 99th Wainwright fell. Next came Harter Fell—my 100th Wainwright! Crossing the Nan Bield Pass and climbing to Harter Fell offered sublime views down to Blea Water and Haweswater Reservoir. I quietly congratulated myself on reaching the century mark.
Looking toward Kentmere Reservoir from High StreetThe Kentmere west ridge as seen from High Street
Harter Fell ahead, my 100th WainwrightSharp rock outcrops on Nan Bield Pass
Buoyed by the achievement, I sped across the lush grass toward Kentmere Pike, serenaded by a proud male skylark singing from a fence post. After soaking in views toward Morecambe Bay, I traveled at my fastest pace of the day to Shipman Knotts—the seventh and final Wainwright fell of the trip—before beginning my descent back to Kentmere village via Wray Crag and Stile End.
Haweswater as seen from Harter FellThe route from Harter Fell to Kentmere Pike
Looking toward Shipman Knotts from Kentmere PikeThe west ridge from Shipman Knotts