Glaramara, Allen Crags, Great End and Seathwaite Fell

It was three weeks since I finished my long 1,120-mile walk down the length of Great Britain, and just over two weeks before I returned to work, when I took a few days out to undertake a couple of walks in the Lake District. It was late August, and signs of autumn were already appearing with longer nights and darker shades in the leaves.

Having contacted a few friends about my intentions, Tim Nobes joined me for one of the walks, choosing this circular journey over the spectacular but less-frequented mountains surrounding Scafell and Great Gable. As we met up at Seathwaite Farm, the weather was set fair with glints of sun breaking through early morning clouds. We were fortunate to enjoy such a good day out!

Tim and I set off from Seathwaite Farm knowing the hardest work of the day was in the first couple of hours: making a steep ascent of Glaramara's west face along a track parallel to Hind Gill. After a missed gate and a few hundred extra metres of walking, we found the right access path. Thanks to the fitness regime from my 80 continuous days of backpacking on the 1,000-mile walk, I was up and away quickly, while Tim steadfastly followed behind.

The big advantage of gaining high ground immediately is that mountain views open up fast. Great Gable appeared over Seathwaite Fell, followed by Castle Crag, Allen Crags, Great End, Brandreth, and Grey Knotts. Around the 500m contour, a striking seam of marbled rock caught our interest.

Above 600 metres, the ascent eased before we tackled Glaramara's final challenge: scrambling to the rocky summit tor at 783m. We had climbed over 650 metres and were only at our first summit of four! Wainwright puts it perfectly in his Southern Fells guide: "Glaramara's unique situation, in the heart of the district yet isolated by deep valleys, is emphasised by the splendid view. Beaten in height by many fells but overshadowed by none, the summit provides a spacious and interesting panorama."

Heading south toward Allen Crags, the eastern and southern views were at our disposal: Skiddaw, Blencathra, the Helvellyn range, the Langdales (with Pike o' Stickle dominating), Crinkle Crags, Bowfell, and Esk Pike. The walk to Allen Crags was pleasant and immediate.

From Allen Crags, we descended to lunch at Esk Hause before tackling Great End (910m)—our highest point of the day and England's fifth-highest mountain. Great End offered superb views of Scafell Pike exactly one mile to the south-west, where we could clearly see the crowds of summit-baggers.

From Esk Hause, we followed the popular track past Sprinkling Tarn, meeting fellow hikers and chatting with young adults whose colleagues were geocaching on Great End. Turning north from Sprinkling Tarn, we headed for Seathwaite Fell.

Reaching the highest cairn marking Seathwaite Fell (632m), Tim bagged his first and only Wainwright of the day while I collected my fourth. Despite its lower altitude, it provides one of the best perspectives of Great Gable and Green Gable across Windy Gap.

With all climbing work done, our descent began by retracing our steps to Sty Head, past Styhead Tarn, and down Styhead Gill past Greenhow Knott. Walking this route rather than Grains Gill provided a dramatic, full-circle appreciation of Glaramara's steep west face from below.

Passing returning walkers near Stockley Bridge, we arrived back at Seathwaite Farm feeling thoroughly pleased with a magnificent day out.