Knott Rigg, Ard Crags, Sail, Crag Hill, Wandope, Whiteless Pike and Rannerdale Knotts

It is always nice to walk in the western fells of the Lake District, as it is quite a journey to reach them from North Yorkshire. Deciding to spend three days in November 2013 dedicated to fells in the far west, this route was my middle day. Staying in Keswick, I drove to Buttermere village after an early breakfast and set off at 9:00 AM.

My friend Tim Nobes joined me for the first half of the walk, influencing our very first stop before even leaving the village: St James' Church in Buttermere. Inside, a memorial window dedicated to Alfred Wainwright features a plaque reading: "Pause and remember Alfred Wainwright. Fellwalker, guide book author and illustrator who loved this valley. Lift your eyes to Haystacks his favourite place. 1907-1991." Lifting our eyes in contemplation, we then set off eastward along the Newlands Hause pass road toward Moss Force.

It was a steady climb beside the upland road, ascending 200 metres over 1.2 miles to Newlands Hause. Pausing briefly to admire Moss Force—a nearly 100ft waterfall cascading from Robinson—we turned away and began the ascent to Knott Rigg.

The first half is a climb of about 120 metres to the western end of the superb 2-kilometre ridge ending at Ard Crags. As Wainwright observed upon reaching the ridge: "Upon reaching the ridge there is at once a fine view down the other side of Sail Beck and across is the tremendous scarred wall of Wandope, Eel Crag and Sail."

While outward views from Knott Rigg are limited due to being sandwiched between higher mountain ranges, the eastern end of the ridge at Ard Crags offers a magnificent vista. As Wainwright eulogised: "The highlight of the view is the beautiful detail of Newlands, a picture of bright pastures intermingled with heathery ridges, backed by the Helvellyn range, which is seen end to end in the distance."

Tim completed his task for the day here and headed home for parental duties. Accompanying him down the north-west slope toward Sail Beck cost me 50 metres of hard-earned altitude, but after bidding him farewell near Addacomb Beck, I faced the steep, arduous ascent to Sail—a climb of 350 metres at a punishing 50% gradient.

Heaving my way up on a true north line toward Sail, the climb was grueling. Emerging into the cloud line after 1 hour and 20 minutes, my short moment on Sail's summit contrasted sharply with a previous summer visit—this time it was damp, cloudy, and utterly miserable.

Marching on toward Crag Hill and Wandope in the clag, the mist stayed stubbornly in place alongside light rain flurries.

Riding the summit over Whiteless Pike, my camera lens steamed up in the fog and despair set in. I even considered bypassing Rannerdale Knotts. However, as I descended Whiteless Breast, I suddenly dropped below the cloud line into a breathtaking view. Reinvigorated, I answered the call of Rannerdale Knotts.

Reaching the craggy summit of Rannerdale Knotts, I sat and admired the sublime prospect of the Buttermere and Crummock Water valley with both lakes glistening below. Descending carefully from the south side, a good grass path led me back to Buttermere. A remarkable walk of three acts: a great first third, a miserable middle third, and a soul-reviving final third!