Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc or is one of the most popular long distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc Massif covering a distance of roughly 170 km with 10 km of ascent/descent and passes through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France. Having already been to foot of Everest high up in the Himalayas this seemed to be the next logical step for me in my quest to walk some of the best available long distance walks the world has to offer. This is my account of a fantastic adventure with wonderful scenery and great company. I hope you enjoy it.

(Note: This walk is kindly contributed by Neal Lever)

The Alps

Day 4, 26th June 2012:

I wake up to slightly inclement weather but as my old granny used to say "enough blue sky to make a shirt". No, you work it out as I am not sure either. Mountain air is filling every body's lungs by now and the group is eager to start. Breakfast is eaten, packed lunches made and the tents crammed into the van and we are off. Today our destination is a campsite just before the town of Champex and we are taking the well documented ‘Bovine route'.

It is a slow gradual climb up out of Trient to start with then a steep climb onto La Forclaz at 1528m. We come to our first resting stop as we cross the road that goes down to Le Chatelard and Graham lays down a challenge. The challenge is to beat a five and a half minute climb to La Froclaz which was set only last year, apparently. Only a fool would take up that offer. With Matt not far behind me I am soon gasping for air on this very steep and punishing climb. As we hit the last of the climb we have a run in of a third of a mile or so and it was obvious to me that I was going to beat the five and half minutes. But with only a hundred metres to go Matt flew past me and youth was the easy winner. I did consider rugby tackling him as he came past me but only for a split second.

Matt with a winning smileMatt with a winning smile
Ted divvying up to Mikes amusementTed divvying up to Mikes amusement

We have a coffee break here as it is a holiday and not a race? The coffee is wonderful and with what appears to be the last shower of the day we push on to our lunch stop at Bovine. The early part of the walk is a tough little climb with views through the occasional break in the forest tree line. We can see the densely built city of Martigny on our left. It has city type office buildings and the residential housing on the right of it seems to wrap around agricultural fields.

We soon come to an alpine clearing where we stop for a short break and a refuel. A Cuckoo breaks the silence. I borrow Ted's field glasses and try to spot it but have no luck. Alpine (botany) describes the zone of vegetation on high mountains between the tree line and snow line and any plant that grows in or originates from that zone. Its usually a clearing where farmers allow their cattle to graze during the summer months before taking them back down during winter.

Enjoying a beer and the view of Le RhoneEnjoying a beer and the view of Le Rhone
View down to MartignyView down to Martigny

Onwards through the pine woods and the spruce is a wonderful fresh smell. We stop at Bovine with views all down the Le Rhone valley. Splendid! A cool beer is welcoming on this by now hot summer's day. From Bovine the path zigzags in and out of the river cut valleys sometimes through extreme barren areas derived from rock fall and scree. We cross a couple of fast flowing mountain streams and then our final rest stop for the day is at La Jure at a quaint chalet serving the coolest of beers in a lovely alpine garden with some of the best valley views I have ever seen. We stop here for an hour or so and gladly pass the time away with much chatting. I am learning a little more each day from what seems by now to be a well knitted group. Ted who is an extremely fit man for his age explains that half of one of his calf muscles had to be cut away because of some infection or other. I think if he had a leg removed he would still be pushing us on. Incredible!

The last bit of the walk was on paths, bridal paths and country lanes interspersed with many open fields and lots of them full of wild flowers. Their scents are amazing. We come across what are commonly known in these parts as "garages", or what I preferred to call them "nuclear bunkers". Graham asks Norman to explain what these "garages". Norman tells us that they are definitely nuclear bunkers and that they are to be found all over Switzerland. There are enough of them to house the whole nation in the event of nuclear attack. He also explains that all Swiss male nationals go through compulsory military service and usually receive conscription orders for training at the age of nineteen. Everyone retains his weapon afterwards. I would not to rush into an invasion of Switzerland, call me old fashioned if you like.

Wild flower fieldsWild flower fields
Lac de ChampexLac de Champex

We soon trudge into camp and have to erect our own tents (you lazy so and so Lewis) which does not take too long. I forgot to say that the tents are pop-ups and it takes about a minute but packing away can be fun eh Ted! We only broke one of them. Matt and I walk into the town of Champex which is very picturesque but bloody expensive. One look around a walking gear shop was enough. Still we are in Switzerland. Through the village on our right is Lac de Champex which, not unexpectedly, means Lake of Champex. I know what you're thinking, my French is coming on. Thanks. There are some beautiful properties and hotels here but I would not imagine them to be cheap to stay in. Good job we are in tents.

Back to the campsite and I join Graham in the site lounge come bar for a nice glass (or two) of vino. I practice my French once again this time with Graham's barman friend whom he has known for a while "s'il vous plait". I know what you are thinking, why am I speaking French in Switzerland? Well let me educate you. There is no national language in Switzerland. They speak French, German and Italian so there. We stay for an hour or so and watch tennis on a small TV until dinner is ready.

I'll tell you what, Lewis' culinary skills are not bad for a 21 year old under graduate. He cooked a superb curry nice 'n' spicy just the way I like it. Then with a couple more glasses of wine we put the world to rights and stumble off to bed.

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