Tour du Mont Blanc

The Tour du Mont Blanc or is one of the most popular long distance walks in Europe. It circles the Mont Blanc Massif covering a distance of roughly 170 km with 10 km of ascent/descent and passes through parts of Switzerland, Italy and France. Having already been to foot of Everest high up in the Himalayas this seemed to be the next logical step for me in my quest to walk some of the best available long distance walks the world has to offer. This is my account of a fantastic adventure with wonderful scenery and great company. I hope you enjoy it.

(Note: This walk is kindly contributed by Neal Lever)

The Alps

Day 9, 1st July 2012:

The overnight thunderstorms and persistent rain seem to have finished. The tents we are supplied with withstood the onslaught of the Italian weather last night. I was half expecting to be moored up somewhere else on the campsite but when I awake everything is fine and surprisingly dry.

We catch a bus for the first mile or so of our journey this morning just to shorten the road section one feels. After the bumpy bus ride we start climbing up the, by now, rutted dirt road of the Veny valley. The road hugs the ever-raging torrent of the Dora di Veny River which after the night's heavy rain fall is extremely spectacular. After an hour or so we arrive at a very unusual lake by the name of Lac de Combal which roughly translates as "a combination of water". Quite surreal to see that on one side it is completely clear of mountain rain water whilst the other side is cloudy and milky from glacial melt water. As it flows towards the end of the lake and into the river the two types of water are tossed together over the rugged river bed like a giant washing machine to create a milky river. Nearer the town of Courmayeur the river has cleaned itself. It simply runs out of pace and all the glacial grindings sink to the bottom.

Lac de CombalLac de Combal
Dora di Veny RiverDora di Veny River

We find ourselves at the tip of the Glacier du Miage which stretches almost to the top of Mont Blanc. The end of the glacier is almost completely covered in rocks that it has ground out and picked up on its way down. Whilst most take a rest I take the opportunity to walk on it. It is like a lunar land scape. The rocks are jutting out at all angles, some are huge and trapped in the ice and some are small just coating the top like hundreds and thousands sprinkled over the top of grandma's Sunday cake. Every now and then there is a huge crack as if to confirm that it is still alive and on the move. It is a dangerous place to be. There are small areas that are showing the bluest of ice from these ancient mountains. I decide to re-join the group and make my way of this beautiful but hellish place.

The road to our first stop is admirably straight and can only have been built by the Romans as this was indeed an ancient trade route. It leads directly to the high pass of Col de la Seigne (2515m) and the border and our re-entry back into France. Frank and Keith have shot on ahead so Lee, Graham and I end up pushing the pace on a bit up the Roman road which ends up with a nasty little climb before the refuge. It all seemed innocuous to begin with but as we approached the last steep ascent of a few hundred feet Graham just pushed me and then it was a race to the top and I have no fear in confessing that I came a worn out second. His mountain fitness for a mmmm old (10yrs my senior you work it out) is admirable and shows you that walking continuously in the mountains brings on a whole new kind of fitness. Lee was miles behind (OK few hundred yards) but then he never realised he had enrolled on a walking holiday of this magnitude. I am sure he won't mind me saying that I found this absolutely hilarious.

Graham pushing on the Roman roadGraham pushing on the Roman road
Man down!! Get the crash teamMan down!! Get the crash team

Light refreshments at this spot with views back down the Val Veny and the sunshine on my back was fantastic. I felt great. Not a care in the world with a totally blank and stress free mind. I guess this is what mountains bring to me and why I spend much of my free time on them. Its not that I have a stressful life it is just the peace and tranquility I find when I am there. Try it, just once, it works.

The second part of the climb today brought us to the Col de la Seigne. Before we reach the col we arrive at a climbing museum which soon became a refuge from the piercing wind that was by now extremely cold and relentlessly buffeting our faces along with fierce snow flurries. The museum which by the way is miles away from anywhere was manned by two extremely nice ladies who proceeded to explain all about the surrounding climbing history. After a brief interlude from the weather it was a case of "once more unto the breach my friends". The weather had not improved but we pushed on over snow fields to the col whereupon the weather sharply improved and the sun shone once more.

Now we are back in France and it is all downhill from here (the walk that is) to the campsite at Les Chapieux which is a small hamlet only inhabited in the summer months. As we drop down into the valley we notice that there is some kind of military manoeuvres taking place. Several troop carrying trucks are milling about with not much going on. A typical government waste of money that seems endemic in all governments of the world.

We stop at the Refuge des Mottets and have a late lunch, oh and a beer for me, well the sun is shining and I am on my hols when all is said and done. There is still a long way to go, about six miles tab in on road. Graham decides to go ahead in order to catch a farm dairy open where he is hoping to purchase some fine cheese to go towards lunch tomorrow. He also wants to meet Lewis and bring the van up the road to give the option to those with weary legs a ride in. Matt and I are handed the task of getting the group down to the meeting point. It is not a difficult task but I suppose with our joint mountain experience it makes sense.

We soon meet the van and one or two take the ride. The rest of us push on albeit downhill but my legs are tired. We pass one or two more troops on the way down this green and pleasant valley then soon arrive at our campsite for the night. It is quite an exposed site and understandably not open all year round. On the way to our erected tents (thanks Lewis) we pass the Auberge de la Nova a hotel and restaurant which will be the venue for a cooked meal and several beers.

Les ChapieuxLes Chapieux
Ted in his wildernessTed in his wilderness

I dump my kit in the tent and Ted and wander back up to the watering hole and join the already drinking Lewis and Graham for a few light refreshments. A couple of hours soon pass before we enjoy our evening meal. A couple more beers later we all move off to the tents as we have an early start tomorrow. Now there's a change.

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