Ayot Greenway, Lemsford and Brocket Hall

The path leaves the river turning through fields to join the track of former railway, now a pleasant recreational path called the Ayot Greenway, administered by Hertfordshire County Council. The cuttings and embankments of this 2.5 mile path provide a variety of excellent habitats for flowers, birds and butterflies, and offers lovely views over the surrounding countryside. Much of the line is wooded with a pleasant mixture of hardwood trees. Clearings and coppiced areas provide different conditions for the wildlife. This railway, once used by George Bernard Shaw, who lived at nearby Ayot St Lawrence, to journey to London, was axed in the infamous Doctor Beeching railway cuts in 1965.

From the railway track, it is just a short stroll down a lane to the pretty village of Ayot Green. The attractive cottages that surround the large green, shaded by huge oak and chestnut trees, were once homes for the workers of the nearby Brocket Estate. One cottage was converted from an old timber framed toll-house built in 1728 to service the original route of the Great North Road. From the green you can see the red-brick broach spire of the church in neighbouring Ayot St Peter. It was built in 1874, the third church to serve the village, and is famous for its decoration of the Arts and Crafts movement.

From Ayot Green, it is just a step or two into the grounds of Brocket Hall. The path begins in mainly coniferous woodland, which then opens out to grassy parkland dotted with fine mature trees, including several imposing cedars. A public right of way leads to the village of Lemsford, emerging on to the main street near a brick and weather boarded mill, now converted into apartments. This listed building inspired the Victorian composer, JP Skelly, who was staying at Brocket Hall nearby, when he wrote the song 'Nellie Dean'. It is said it was sung by soldiers that were destined for the Boer War when they were billoted in the village.

Lemsford was originally on the direct route of the Great North Road, and one of its former coaching inns, the Old Sun Inn still exists today. Lemsford Springs Nature Reserve is further on past the pub. Here old watercress beds, willows and reeds offer an excellent habitat for birds. The wisteria-hung Mill House, 18th-century Bridge House and ancient cottages near the river, as well as the pub, all contribute to Lemsford's old-world charm.

A fairly short detour can be made to the main road to see the Church of St John the Evangelist, which was built in 1859 by Earl Cowper, close to the entrance gates to Brocket Hall. The Earl owned the nearby Panshanger estate and inherited the Brocket estate from his stepfather, Lord Palmerston. The stone church is in Early English style with a squat tower decorated with dragon gargoyles crawling down two corners.

The walk now reenters the grounds of Brocket Hall at the same point by the mill, but this time the footpath leads towards the lovely waterfall and old bridge of 1722 over the River Lea and the nearby square red-brick mansion standing by the lake. The old Tudor house was demolished in 1746, when the estate was bought by Sir Matthew Lamb. In 1755 he commissioned James Paine to build his new mansion with magnificent interiors that provided the contrast with its plain exterior. Paine also designed the elegant old bridge.

Brocket Hall was home to two prime ministers, Lord Palmerston and his brother-in-law, Lord Melbourne (whose wife was the beautiful and highly strung Lady Caroline Lamb). The grounds, after their initial layout, were later landscaped by Capability Brown with his inimitable clumps of trees and pastoral vistas. He created a lake by widening the River Lea. The hall is now a conference centre and not generally open to the public; part of the park is now a golf course, but the existing magnificent parkland trees have been retained.