A walk around Ely

On leaving the Bandstand, the walk takes you back along Broad Street to the castellated entrance of the park. The path uphill to Cherry Hill gives fine views of the cathedral, framed by mature trees. Notice in particular the West Tower, which has stood here for over 800 years, and a unique octagonal wooden lantern, erected in the early 14th century, when the cathedral's central Norman tower collapsed.

To carry out this undertaking in timber was a structural achievement of the first magnitude in the English Middle Ages. For 12 years, England was scoured for oaks of sufficient faultless scantling, some 21 yards long by 1 yard square. The transportation of the timber demanded that roads and bridges be strengthened from as far as Hatfield Forest and Chicksands in Bedfordshire. And today 400 tons of lead covered wood hangs, seemingly in space, held by timbers reaching to eight stone pillars.

As you leave Cherry Hill, look to the left to see the huge Monk's Granary Barn. Dating from the same period as the cathedral, it is used as a dining hall by the King's school. The school has associations with more than one king; founded by Alfred the Great, Edward the Confessor received his early education at the Benedictine Abbey, while Henry VIII founded the school in 1543. King's occupies many of the city's medieval domestic buildings.

Ahead stands the Porta, originally the main gateway to the Benedictine Abbey. Before passing through it, detour down a shaded walk to enjoy Prior Crauden's Chapel. Tiny, 14th century and beautifully maintained, it exudes a quality of peace only to be found in an English cathedral close.

Returning to the Porta, pass through it to walk along The Gallery, which offers more excellent views from across the road of the west tower and octagonal over ancient roofs, with Prior Crauden's Chapel to the rear. Past the Houses of the Headmaster (the Queen's Hall) and the Bishop (the Great Hall), on the right, on the way to Palace Green with the Bishop's Palace, part early-Tudor and partly in the Wren style, on the left.

Stand by the cannon in the centre of the green for the further celebrated view, this time of the west front of the cathedral, and to the left the largest Lady Chapel in England. Built detached as an aisle-less hall in 1321, by Alan of Walsingham, it was completed just before the advent of the Black Death in 1349.

Ahead, abutting the churchyard of St Mary's Parish Church is the former home of Oliver Cromwell and his family, for eleven years from 1636. Cromwell rose to power during the English Civil War to become Lord Protector of the Commonwealth during England's brief period as a republic.

Ely (Eel's Island) owes its religious and commercial existence to St Etheldreda, an East Anglian princess, who, in 673, having escaped two unhappy marriages (while still retaining her virginity), fled from her second husband to become a nun here on lands bequeathed from her first marriage.

The religious house was subsequently attacked by Danish invaders, but somehow the candle of Christianity flickered on. And in 1083, Abbot Simeon, then in his 80's, was despatched to this remote island to commence the present building, larger and more magnificent than anything before, both to glorify God and to enhance the prestige of the Benedictines.

In 1109, Ely was made at Bishop's see and the First Bishop secured the privilege of an annual fair of seven days to which was given the name St Etheldreda's (St Audrey's) Fair.

Following the Thirty Years War, Cambridge became the only place for discharging ships inland on the River Great Ouse and Ely had to content itself with light merchandise such as laces and trinkets. It is from these small and inexpensive stuffs sold at St Audrey's Fair that we get the word 'tawdry'.

The 16th century Steeple Gate leads to the High Street, and on the way to the market-place. Ely Museum has many interesting exhibits of this fenland city and the story of its people.

From the city, Hereward Way leads out towards the Great River Ouse, curving to form a beautiful tree lined walk. The end of this lane holds a haven - Cuckoo Bridge. The reed and sedge banks of this quiet backwater support a wide variety of waterfowl. Also here are Roswell Pits, now a Nature Reserve, which attracts many native and migratory species of wildlife.

A raised causeway across rough pasture soon leads to the banks of the River Great Ouse. Here you can follow the willow lined Riverside Walk, and return to the Bandstand. On the way you pass the extremely thin Ladder House and the Maltings.

Leaving Ely, it is worth taking the A142 Newmarket Road. Just one mile out, past Ely Station, pause at the top of Stuntley Hill. Here there is the finest view of the 'Ship of the Fens' as the cathedral is known locally, set in some of the richest agricultural land in Britain.