Bungay, Earsham, Bigod Way and River Waveney

From a castle, over rivers and along lanes to see lakes, hills and a spa

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Statistics and Files
Start: Bungay Distance: 5.5 miles (8.9 km) Climbing: 43 metres
Grid Ref: TM 33670 89769 Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Bungay
Statistics
Start: Bungay Distance: 5.5 miles (8.9 km)
Climbing: 43 metres Grid Ref: TM 33670 89769
Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: The town of Bungay has a long and interesting history. Its name probably derives from Bunincga-haye, the enclosure of the tribe of Bonns, and the towns mayor and councillors are still known by their Saxon titles of Reeve and Feoffees. In Roman times, when the River Waveney was navigable, Bungay was an important river crossing.

Bungay CastleBungay Castle
Queens Head, EarshamQueens Head, Earsham

The towns theatre flourished in the 1700's and was well known to the actor David Garrick. Performances were no doubt witnessed by the French author Chateaubriand, who lived in Bungay after escaping the French Revolution. He stayed with the Ives family in Bridge Street and taught French at Beccles College.

Among the town's many interesting buildings are the Butter Market, the 12th century Saint Mary's Church, Holy Trinity Church and some attractive houses in Bridge Street.

Bungay had a castle before the Romans arrived, but the present castle dates from after the Norman conquest. It passed to Roger Bigot in 1103, and his son, Hugh built the stone keep, the walls of which are 18 feet (5.5 metres) thick and about 90 feet (27 metres) high.

The Bigod family, who owned most of the surrounding area, argued violently with the crown and Henry II ordered the castle to be destroyed. In the south-west corner of the ruined keep is a 'mine gallery', a system of tunnels built into the masonry to enable Henry's men to set fire to the timbers and burn the castle. However, the Bigods managed to prevent this by paying a huge levy to the crown.

In the 15th century, the castle was bought by the Duke of Norfolk and remained in his family until being given to the council in 1988.

Along the river path, near the start of the walk, there are many wildflowers in summer, including teasels, water forget-me-not and watercress. Hemp agrimony, a tallish plant with reddish-mauve or whitish flowers, also grows here. It was once renowned as a good wound healing herb and was applied like a poultice. Dog roses and ragwort can also be found along the banks. Swans and their cygnets frequent the river, and herons can be spotted in the adjoining meadow.

Further along, you come to the village of Earsham, once owned by the Bigod family. The Otter Trust, where the public can see and learn about these fascinating animals, is situated on the outskirts, about half a mile west of the route. There are waterfowl on the lakes and pleasant riverside walks.

A rural scene on the Bigod WayA rural scene on the Bigod Way
River Waveney at Bath HillsRiver Waveney at Bath Hills

There are vineyards north of Earsham, and it is said that they have existed in the area since Roman times. Roger Bigod owned extensive vineyards in 1240. Beyond the vine is a series of lakes on the site of former gravel workings. They are now used by fishermen and water skiers, and the quieter stretches are a haven for many waterbirds.

In Georgian times, a cold spring bath was created on the south facing Bath Hills, and Bungay became a spa town. Half way up the hill is Cold Bath House, where Lilius Rider Haggard, daughter of the famous author Sir Henry Rider Haggard, lived. Lilius wrote from personal experience about the countryside she loved and the people who lived there. From the path, there are fine views across the Waverley Valley and Bungay.

A driveway leads to Ditchingham Lodge. Sir Henry Rider Haggard lived here, as well as at Ditchingham House, where he farmed. Beside being a novelist (among other books, he wrote King Solomon's Mines), he was an expert on agriculture. He also became very involved in social conditions in Britain and had an interest in the Salvation Army. He was knighted in 1912 and died in 1929.

On the edge of Outney Common stood Mill House. George Baldry, a much loved local character, lived here until the 1950's. His autobiography 'The Rabbitskin Cap', was edited by Lilius Rider Haggard. The title refers to a cap his mother made in his childhood, which became his most treasured possession.

George's life revolved around the Waverly Valley. He loved engines and became a mechanical wizard, inventing a number of perpetual motion devices, none of which worked. He became an expert thatcher, reed-basket maker and boat and bridge bulder, and Mill House was a local attraction, though it has since been demolished.

Bungay has long been famous for its printing works. Across the road are Clay's modern printing works. The firm was founded by a schoolmaster, John Brightley in 1795. A grocer's assistant from Norwich named JR Childs worked for him, and drove a tandem and cart all over England, selling their books.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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