Thaxted and the River Chelmer

A walk along a river and around a charming town in rural Essex

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Statistics and Files
Start: Thaxted Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km) Climbing: 42 metres
Grid Ref: TL 61068 31206 Time: 1-2 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Thaxted
Statistics
Start: Thaxted Distance: 2.6 miles (4.2 km)
Climbing: 42 metres Grid Ref: TL 61068 31206
Time: 1-2 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: This walk starts in the pretty town of Thaxted, almost unchanged since medieval times, and leads past the grand parish church, which dominates the surrounding countryside from its hilltop position, then on to a restored windmill containing a rural museum. Thereafter, the walk continues into the fields of Essex following the banks of the River Chelmer before returning to explore Thaxted itself.

Thaxted Post OfficeThaxted Post Office
Almshouses at Thaxted churchAlmshouses at Thaxted church

The name Thaxted comes from the Saxon 'Thec stede', which describes a place where thatching is found. From a Saxon village, Thaxted grew to become an important town in the Middle Ages. Its wealth derived from the cutlery industry and is reflected in the many interesting medieval and Georgian buildings for which the town is renowned.

Clarance House, near the start of the walk, was built in 1715 for the apothecary and has a fine Queen Anne doorway. It is notable for the fact that it is made of brick, whereas most of the town's buildings are timber-framed. In contrast, just the other side of the church, to which you will return later, are two beautifully preserved almshouses, both now private dwellings.

The thatched building on the left is known as 'the Chantry' and was built in the 15th century as a priest's house. In 1589, it was converted to an almshouse for four people. The building on the right was built as an almshouse for eight couples in 1714. It was renovated in 1975 to accommodate three elderly couples, winning the Heritage Year Certificate of Merit.

Just pass the almshouses is Thaxted Windmill, built by John Webb, in 1804. It is the only surviving mill in the area. The mill worked for over a century before stopping in 19O7, when it was no longer viable. It has undergone extensive restoration, which still continues. From the top there are marvellous views of the town and surrounding countryside.

View to Thaxted from the southView to Thaxted from the south
Thaxted GuildhallThaxted Guildhall

After the windmill, the walk continues through fields and alongside the River Chelmer, which is more of a stream at this point. Its shallow waters run over a gravel and mud bed, and the banks are lined with small trees and hedgerows that support a wide variety of wildlife.

The construction of the magnificent Church of St John the Baptist, St Mary and St Lawrence was started in 1340 and was funded by the powerful House of Clare, who owned the local manor, and by prosperous cutlers in the town. It took over 170 years to complete. The stone spire is 181 feet (55 metres) high, and has flying buttresses at its base. The Spire was rebuilt in 1822, after having been struck by lightning in 1814. Of special note is the highly ornate late 15th century font and font cover in the North Isle.

On leaving the church, the walk continues down the cobbled street called Stony Lane, where Dick Turpin's cottage is found. The notorious highwayman was born a few miles away in Hempstead, and local legend suggests that perhaps his uncle lived here, and that he was a frequent visitor. Born in 1705, Turpin was hanged in York in 1739 for the murder of a Epping gamekeeper. During his short career, he was a butcher's apprentice cattle lifter, smuggler, housebreaker and horse thief - probably simultaneously.

At the end of Stony Lane is the magnificent Guildhall. This was built by the Cutlers in about 1400, for use by the Guild. It has an open arched ground floor, with two storey jetties above, and a double pitched roof. The open paved ground floor was used as a market, while the upper floor served as living quarters for a warden. The Guildhall is still used today as a meeting place for the parish council.

Further along Town Street is the Manse, where the composer and music teacher Gustav Holst lived, from 1917-1925. Holtz lived in Thaxted from 1914, at first in nearby Monk Street, where he wrote his seven movement orchestral suite, 'The Planets'. Holst wrote several works, especially for Thaxted, and nearly always played the organ in the church at Christmas.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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