Hooton Pagnell and Brodsworth

Hooton Pagnell Hall, once home of the Warde family is now a Grade II listed luxury boutique bed and breakfast, wedding and events venue. Despite improvements and extensions over time, the core of the building dates from the 14th century. Prior to the present house, in Norman times, Sir Ralph de Paganell, whose name is reflected in the current name of the house and village, was lord of the manor.

A flight of 13 steps leads to the 11th century All saints Church. several Norman features survive, including a massive arch and traces of herringbone masonry. There is an ancient font and a fine, 18th century marquetry pulpit. The most unusual feature is the Victorian carillion, which plays a different tune every day of the week, every three hours.

The route through the village leads past picturesque limestone cottages. Hooton Pagnell's outwards appearance has changed little since the Middle Ages. From the remains of a 13th century butter cross there is a magnificent view westward towards the Pennines. The elegant Frickley Hall stands in the village of Frickley, in the village's park about a mile across green fields to the west, while the despairing and reclaimed site of Frickley and South Elmsall Colliery looms to the north-west. Almost directly beneath the butter cross is the village pound, a stone walled enclosure for stray cattle.

You leave the village along a lane called Narrow Balk, balk being a local mane for farm tracks wide enough for farm carts. Narrow Balk runs parallel to the line of medieval strip fields. The tall hedgerows are a haven for a proliferation of wild flowers, including dog rose, scabious and knapweed.

The village of Brodsworth lies in a peaceful valley. Hidden among the trees on the hillside is Brodsworth Hall, which has been described as the most complete example of a Victorian country house in England. The Old Hall in the park was the home of the Thellussons, a French Huguenot family. They came to England in 1750, and created a family fortune based on banking. Charles Sabine Thullesson had the present hall built in the 1860's. The last resident of the house was Sylvia Grant-Dalton (wife of Captain Grant-Dalton), who fought a losing battle for 57 years against leaking roofs on the mansion and land subsidence from nearby coal mining. After her death in 1988, Her daughter, Pamela Williams, gave the Hall and gardens to English Heritage in 1990. As a member of English Heritage I can vouch that the gardens are magnificent. My wife and I have enjoyed strolling around them on more than one occasion.

St Michael and All Angels Church stands not far from the hall in a peaceful woodland setting. It contains memorials to the Thellussons, ans many medieval features. Subsidence caused by mining has taken its toll on the church, which stood for many years swathed in scaffolding. Much of the restoration was undertaken by British Coal. After viewing the church, you return to Narrow Balk and Hooton Pagnell on a pleasant byway alongside the trees of Broadrick Holt.