Warkworth, River Coquet and Mill Walk Wood

Warkworth is situated on the last bend of the river before its reaches the sea, slipping quietly around the town in a horseshoe loop. The River Coquet begins as a sparkling Cheviot Hills stream, which hurries down between the remote hills of Upper Coquet Dale. At Warkworth it is broad and placid, on its last meandering stage before entering the North Sea at the coastal town of Amble.

The remains of Warkworth Castle are particularly attractive when viewed from the river. Like most castles, it has been extended and altered over the years. It began as an early Norman motte and bailey, although the site itself was probably fortified even earlier, in Saxon times. The later building is in the style of a tower house, laid out in a square, elaborated with a tower like projection at the centre of each face. The interiors were also elaborate, with a complex pattern of rooms, passages and staircases, and an unusually large number of windows.

The castle belonged to King Edward III, who gave it to Lord Percy of Alnwick in 1331. The Percy family, who were Earls of Northumberland, kept Warkworth as their home, retaining their fortress at Alnwick. However when they fell from favour and left Northumberland the castle declined. Part of the family history was dramatised by Shakespeare in 'Henry IV Part Two'. Three scenes are set in the castle. In the play, Percy and his son, Harry Hotspur, plot to set Henry Bolingbroke on the throne. However, when Henry became too autocratic after becoming King Henry IV, Harry Hotspur plotted against him.

The castle is now in ruins, but the keep has been restored and there are still large areas of fine medieval masonry. Today, it is owned by the present Duke of Northumberland, but maintained by English Heritage. In spring, its velvety green mound is covered with daffodils.

Below the castle's steep banks there is a landing stage on the river where boats can be hired. The paths continue along the edge of the woods, then emerges into a more open aspect, opposite Warkworth Hermitage on the far bank.

Carved into the sandstone cliff is a vaulted chapel, with a stone altar. Next to the altar is a sacristy - a room for vestments and the sacred vessels. The hermit's life would have been spartan, but there was at least a large fireplace and bread ovens in the living quarters. The last hermit to live in Warkworth was the chaplain to the Sixth Earl of Northumberland, George Lancaster, in the 16th century.

Warkworth village is lovely. From the castle, a wide street slopes steeply down through the heart of the settlement to the market place. Georgian and Victorian buildings line the way, many with coloured window boxes, tubs and hanging baskets. At the end of Bridge Street, the river flows under a medieval bridge, and a modern bridge built in the 1960's. The 14th century bridge, with two bold and graceful arches, replaced an even earlier stone bridge. It has a defensive tower and bears the Percy coat of arms.

The riverside path from the medieval bridge leads past the Norman St Lawrence's Church, which stands on a Saxon foundation. Its stained glass depicts Saint Hilda, Abbess of Whitby. As with the castle and with the houses of Warkworth, the church is proudly kept and well maintained. It is obvious the people of Warkworth are proud on their lovely town and they maintain it pristinely.

My wife Lil and I thoroughly enjoyed our walk, which would more appropriately be called a leisurely stroll. We were blessed with a lovely warm spring day and all the people we met during the walk were pleasant. On the riverside walk we were besieged by an extended family of ducks who must be well looked after by the local folk and visitors alike. They expected our attention. It was a tremendous time we had in Warkworth which we finished off by exploring the castle.