Roslin Glen, Bilston Woods, Polton, River North Esk and Rosslyn Castle

Through an area of outstanding beauty steeped in history
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Statistics and Files
Start: Manse Road Distance: 5.0 miles (8.0 km) Climbing: 280 metres
Grid Ref: NT 27263 63227 Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Roslin
Statistics
Start: Manse Road Distance: 5.0 miles (8.0 km)
Climbing: 280 metres Grid Ref: NT 27263 63227
Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: Roslin Glen is not only an area of dramatic scenery, but a place also intimately entwined in much of Scotland's turbulent past. During the 19th century and at the beginning of the 20th century, Roslin Glen was a popular venue for picnics and Sunday afternoon strolls. It attracted celebrities such as Scott, Wordsworth, Johnson and Burns, all of whom extolled upon its virtues. Further into the past it was a place where noblemen built castles, such as Rosslyn Castle. Armies mustered prior to battle, groups of rebellious young men (the Flower of Scotland) sought refuge from the occupying English, and John Knox preached from a rocky pinnacle across the rippling waters of the River North Esk.

This circular walk across the plateau above the glen to Bilston Woods, returning through Roslin Glen itself, includes many sites of great historic interest, including two castles, Wallace's Cave and Rosslyn Chapel. The walk begins in the delightful village of Roslin, which is known to have existed as a flourishing market town for over a thousand years.

Hawthornden CastleHawthornden Castle
Wallace's CaveWallace's Cave

Just beyond Roslin the skyline is dominated by the Pentland Hills with Dryden Tower and the village of Bilston Glen in the foreground. Dryden Tower was built in the 19th century by a local ship owner in order that he might spy his vessels approaching in the Firth of Forth. The adjacent Bilston Glen Colliery, heralded as the mine of the 21st century when it first opened, is now demolished. The route passes through the rolling agricultural land of Mountmarle Farm. On these now peaceful fields one of Scotland's biggest battles occurred, the Battle of Roslin. On 24th February 1303, Edward 1's army of 30,000 Englishmen, brought north to subdue the rebellious Scots, were defeated by an army of 8,000 Scotsmen.

River North Esk flowing through Roslin GlenRiver North Esk flowing through Roslin Glen
Old Gunpowder Works in Roslin GlenOld Gunpowder Works in Roslin Glen

Further along the route Bilston Viaduct is an impressive example of Victorian engineering built for the railway. The descent through Bilston Woods leads down into the Esk valley and the village of Polton, the home of Thomas de Quincey, a 19th century poet known for his famous poem 'Confessions of an English Opium Eater'. From Polton the paths climbs over a dramatic knife edge ridge then descends to Maiden Castle. This is not, as you might expect, the site of an ancient castle, but a small hill, covered with trees, surrounded by the North Esk and sandstone cliffs. Local folklore tells of a fairy queen who once lived in this scenic place.

The return journey is through the beautiful Roslin Glen following the River North Esk. Roe Deer or Badger may be glimpsed, or a Heron looking out for a meal. Here too, is Hawthornden Castle, built in the 15th century by the Drummond family and home of the poet William Drummond (1585-1649). Caverns beneath the castle and caves along the ravine have provided refuge to many throughout the ages. It was at Hawthornden caverns, in hiding from the English, that Robert the Bruce is believed to have encountered the famous spider which so influenced his military strategies. In a cavern large enough to hold 60 people, Wallace's Cave, Sir William Wallace, a champion of Scotland's independence, spent five days in refuge.

Rosslyn CastleRosslyn Castle
Rosslyn ChapelRosslyn Chapel

Rosslyn Castle stands on a pinnacle of solid rock surrounded on three sides by the river. Built in the 13th century by the St Clair family, the castle has been frequently battered and almost destroyed by war. And once by fire started accidentally by a maid while searching beneath a bed with a candle for one of her ladyship's puppies. The high Norman arch, which supported the only access to the castle, has been restored, as has the interior, and much of the wall and gate survive.

In 1450, William St Clair instigated the building of a great church near the castle but it was never completed. However, the top of the cross designed for the church survives as the magnificent Rosslyn Chapel. Considered to be one of the finest such buildings in Scotland, its elaborate stonework has earned the building an international reputation.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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