Langholm and Whita Hill

The walk begins on the riverbank, where Ewe's Water joins the cool, clear River Esk, famous for its Trout fishing. Over the river is Langholm Castle, a ruined border tower left over from the area's colourful, if bloody past.

You leave the town past Whita Well, whose pure waters fuelled a number of illicit whisky stills, and climb Whita Hill. The moorland, a mix of dense mature heather and succulent young shoots supports a large population of red grouse. The shy ring ouzel (a mountain thrush) is also found here, along with curlews, skylarks and whinchats.

The hill is the scene of the annual Common Riding, where a stream of horses make a ceremonial gallop to the summit to defend the boundaries of the common land. This event has taken place on the last Friday in July since 1759, when the boundaries were finally agreed.

There are fine views from the top of Whita Hill, 355 metres above sea level. The Cheviot Hills and the Keilder Forest are to the north and east. The flat, tidal expanses of the Solway Firth stretch away to the south; beyond is the Isle of Man. The summit is crowned by an impressive obelisk to the memory of Sir John Malcolm (Knight of Eskdale), born near here in 1769. At the age of 13 he received a commission in the army, the start of a glittering career. He became Governor of Bombay in 1827.

You leave Whita Hill by the same route you came and cross the River Esk suspension bridge into the centre of Langholm. The town is famous for the manufacture of high quality tweed. From the town the walk continues by veering off into woodland past Stubholm Farm, the 17th century home of Archie Armstrong, court jester to Charles I. When not entertaining the King he was probably stealing sheep for which he was better known to the local population.

The route follows a woodland walk above Wanchope Water, the third of Langholm's three rivers, which tumbles over rocks far below. In spring the woodland floor is carpeted in wood sorrel, bluebells and primroses. Song thrushes and wood warblers can be heard above the roar of the water and wrens dart along the riverbank.

To the right of Beck's Burn, across the gorge, are the ruins of Wanchope Church, immortalised by William Wordsworth when visiting the town. To the left is the site of the 13th century Wanchope Castle. Above, on Warblaw Hill, peewits call over the moorland and sparrowhawks twist and turn high over their territories.

The route descends through parkland back into the town. By the old parish church, it crosses another bridge, dating from 1775. It is a pity that subsequent Langholm bridge builders, working on the ill fated town bridge, which collapsed a century later, learned so little from this structure. One of the apprentices to work on it was Thomas Telford, who was born in Westerkirk, seven miles up the Esk, and brought up in L:angholm.