Balmacara Bay, Woodland and Gardens

The walk begins on the northern shores of Loch Alsh, which divides mainland Wester Ross from the eastern tip of the Isle of Skye. The island's broken horizon, rising to the 733 metre high Beinn na Callich, dominates the bay. To the left of the island lies the narrow strait of Kyle Rhea, and to its right Kyle Akin, where ferries crossed daily until the building of the Skye Bridge in 1992.

Kyle is the English spelling of a Gaelic word meaning 'water channel' and 'Rhea', along with his brother 'Akin' were Celtic giants who lived in a castle overlooking the channel. The brothers fought each other; Akin pelted Rhea with boulders, which can still be seen strewn along the coastline near the channel, causing Rhea to fall into the sea. Eventually the brothers made up and since both brothers have guarded the narrow south and west entrances to Loch Alsh.

Between the road and the shore rise the wooded slopes of Ard Hill. In times of feudal uprising, the MacKenzies set light to a barrel of tar here, and so rallied the clan, whose war cry was "Tulloch Ard", which means the 'high hillock'. From the coastal road, a curving drive past a poignant roadside memorial and beneath beech trees leads to Balmacara House. The memorial marks where, in 1903, a little girl was killed when a pony and trap overturned.

Balmacara House was built by Sir Hugh Innes. Around the time of the estate being transferred to the National Trust for Scotland, Balmacara House was leased to the Ministry of Defence and used by Navy divers during training exercises. The house underwent much needed renovation by the MoD in 2011 and continues to be used by them as a training base.

Between the tenure of Innes and the MOD, Balmacara House was home to Isaac Lillingstone, a pious man who dedicated himself to the care of his family and tenants. Later, in 1851, he and his wife moved to Lochalsh House, which stands on a natural promontory overlooking the bay. Once here, he worked on the grounds and gardens, introducing native and exotic examples such as Scots pines, larches, beeches, Corsican pines and oaks. Under the shade of the oaks he planted pink and brilliant crimson rhododendrons. Also, beneath dappled shade, indigenous ferns and primulas thrive among a breathtaking collection of fuchsias, herbaceous species, bog plants and the national collection of bamboos.

From a viewpoint beyond Lochalsh House, the surrounding mountains sweep down to the loch. Rich in fish, this sea loch is a haven for seals and otters. Away to your right lies Kyleakin and the bridge which links the mainland to Skye.

Closer by, along the mainland shore, you can see a monument to Colonel Donald Murchison, a loyal factor to William MacKenzie, fifth Earl of Seaforth. During the Jacobite Rebellions of 1715 and 1719, Seaforth's lands were forfeited and the Earl was exiled. Murchison risked his life to collect rents and take them to his master in Paris.

Murchison was captured and imprisoned in the Tower of London, but King George I, impressed by his unfailing loyalty, freed him and granted him a portion of Seaforth's land. Seaforth however, was not moved; he failed to recognise the king's gift and Murchison died in middle age, a disillusioned man with no land. The memorial was erected in 1861 by his descendant, the famous Scottish geologist and geographer, Sir Roderick Impey Murchison.

The woodland and shore along the bay attract a huge variety of of birds, from waders to robins. Their songs and calls fill the air on the return walk, which runs almost level with the treetops. Tracks of pine martens and wildcats have been discovered here, and, towards dusk, roe deer visit the lower forest from the higher reaches of native woodland.