Exceat, West Dean, Friston Hill, East Dean, Seven Sisters and Cuckmere Haven

A beautiful river estuary where the South Downs meet the sea

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Statistics and Files
Start: Car Park Distance: 7.4 miles (11.9 km) Climbing: 391 metres
Grid Ref: TV 51824 99414 Time: 4 hours Rating: Hard
GPX Route File Google Earth File The Seven Sisters
Statistics
Start: Car Park Distance: 7.4 miles (11.9 km)
Climbing: 391 metres Grid Ref: TV 51824 99414
Time: 4 hours Rating: Hard
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: The series of cliffs which rise one after the other from Cuckmere Haven towards Beachy Head are known as the 'Seven Sisters'. These form one of the finest stretches of coastal scenery in England. Cuckmere Haven itself is one of the last unspoilt river mouths that remain in the South East. The area between Exeate Bridge and the sea shore is a nature wonderland and a feast of history. It, and much of the cliffs around, form the Seven Sisters Country Park.

Opposite the car park at the start of the walk is Exceat Farm; its buildings are all that remain of the village of Exceat. Its named derives from Exe, the old name for the River Cuckmere. The village was mentioned in the Domesday Book. It is believed that the community was depopulated by the ravages of the Black Death in 1348-49 and raids by French pirates.

East DeanEast Dean
Seven SistersSeven Sisters

A path beside the Interpretation Centre climbs up the Downs. A pause at the gate at the top provides a wonderful viewpoint with magnificent views of Cuckmere Haven and the meandering course of the river. To the left is Exceat Hill. It was here a church stood; its site now marked by a stone. Ancient man made a home here, and flint implements have been found. Below, the causeway across the water meadows is thought to have been constructed by the Romans.

Down through Friston Forest is the sheltered little village of West Dean. You pass the old parsonage and the church of All Saints. The parsonage dates from 1280 and has very fine windows. Inside the 12th-century church is a bust by Jacob Epstein of Viscount Waverley. Opposite is the site of the Manor House, a high flint wall and a Dovecote are still visible. It was almost certainly here that King Alfred held a meeting of the Witan (Saxon Council).

The early inhabitants of the village, which was originally just called Dean, earned their living from the salt pans of Cuckmere Haven and from agriculture.

Leaving West Dean, you now enter the forest and follow the grassy track until it emerges on an expanse of open downland at Friston Hill. A descent is then made to lovely Friston Place. A little road circles the grounds and a path takes you across its meadow to a wood. From here, the extent of Friston Forest can be seen. Soon you reach the small, but heavily buttressed, 11th-century church of St Mary the Virgin that sits on top of a hill. Beside it is a fine example of a man made pond, Friston Pond, which probably dates from ancient times. The siting of villages on high ground presented problems of water supply for cattle and this is what the pond was used for.

The gates at the far end of the churchyard open into an open downland valley. Here is Sussex at its best. Seawards, Birling Gap is visible, and above it prominent on the cliff tops is the old Bell Tout Lighthouse. The gently sloping valley leads to East Dean. Here, flint faced cottages almost surround the village green. In the midst of them is the ancient Tiger Inn, dating it is said, from the 13th century.

A steep concrete path takes you out of the village. At the top, you are rewarded with fine views. Crossing a similar wall by way of some steps, you now enter open downland and, as the top of the hill is reached, Crowlink, a collection of old brick and red tiled buildings appear in a hollow to the right. The Crowlink estate is owned by the National Trust and its tenant farmers have restored this part of the Downs to a traditional role of sheep grazing. Once again, the famous Southdown sheep graze contently on the hills.

Roller coasting along the top of Seven SistersRoller coasting along the top of Seven Sisters
Cuckmere HavenCuckmere Haven

Ahead, glittering in the sunlight is the sea. A faint path below a gate takes you to Flagstaff Brow. Beside a seat ia a memorial stone to the benefactor who enabled the Crowlink estate to be purchased for all the nation. From here, the views along the line of cliffs to east and west are magnificent.

Be careful not to walk too close to the edge of the cliffs. The effects of rain and heavy seas cause an erosion of up to 1.5 feet of the cliffs per year. When there is a fall, the chalk deposited at the base protects that particular face from erosion for the next eight to ten years.

You now walk over four of the 'Sisters'. First is Brass Point, followed by Rough Brow, Short Brow and Haven Brow. From the last 'Sister', you are again greeted with magnificent view, this time overlooking Cuckmere Haven. Across the tranquil cove is Seaford Head. Below is the shingle bank, the salt marshes and the meanders and lakes created by the river. To the right in the distance along the Downs is Firle Beacon. Ahead, you can see the town of Seaford.

Look out on your descent for viper's bugloss, cowslip and several varieties of orchid. You pass several 'pill-boxes' on your way down to the valley. These machine gun posts are relics of World War II, as are the 'Dragon's Teeth' tank traps which still remain in position by the shingle bank.

At the gate to the track, you can choose between investigating the beach and salt marsh, or following the track back to Exceat. Both paths meet opposite the little sheltered valley leading to Foxhole. Once the home of another Cuckmere smuggler, it is now that of the Seven Sisters shepherd. The level track back to Exceat offers a good opportunity to observe the many water birds that have made the meanders of the river their home.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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