Itchen Abbas, Chilland and Martyr Worthy

Itchen Abbas is a tranquil village with half-timbered and thatched houses shaded by massive oaks and beeches, which stand among lawns that slope down to the river. Mosaic floors have been discovered at the site of a Roman villa just north of the village, and a Roman coin from the reign of the Emperor Domitian was found nearby.

The beauty of the surroundings attracted Charles Kingsley, who wrote part of the 'Water Babies' while staying at the Plough Inn. WH Hudson, much travelled author and naturalist, described a summer spent here in 1900 in his book 'Hampshire Days', published in 1903. He stayed in the brick fishing lodge that was the favourite retreat of Viscount Grey of Falloden, a British statesman who wrote a book on fly-fishing in 1889.

The village church was rebuilt towards the end of the 18th century. In the churchyard is the grave of John Hughes, hanged in Winchester Gaol for horse stealing in 1825 and said to have been the last man to have been executed for this offence in England.

The River Itchen rises at Hinton Ampner and flows past Itchen Abbas on its way to Winchester before it makes its way to the sea at Southampton. The river valley, with its oak and beech woods and lush green meadows, is famous as a naturalists paradise. The chalk stream runs crystal clear, dotted with the white flowers of water crowfoot. Dabchicks scurry among the tall reed beds and herons stand motionless in the shallows.

As you pass the brick water mill on your left at Chilland, you will see an old iron hitching ring on the wall at the side of the green door. A farmer would hitch his horse to it while he waited for his corn to be ground. The ford was used for horse traffic until 1909 and by the military during World War Two.

You cross a particularly lovely part of the river by a long low plank bridge. This area is officially designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI). The tiny village of Martyr Worthy is arrived at shortly after, tucked casually between the reed beds and rising meadowland. 'Worthy' is the Saxon word that means a place or hamlet, but the origin of 'Martyr' is uncertain. Perhaps it is derived from Henrycus la Martre, who held the land in 1201 and was nicknamed after the old French for a weasel.

The church here dates from the 12th century. It has a finely carved north and south doors and several interesting monuments. One is to the Freshfield family of five sisters who lived at the Manor House, each devoting herself to furthering a special aspect of village life. Miss Jesse Freshfield served abroad during World War One and was decorated for the rescue of a hospital unit left behind at Antwerp.