Blackheath, Greenwich Park and River Thames

Next to the heath lies the Royal Park. It was enclosed in 1433 by Henry VI and later walled by James I. Its present design dates from 1662, when Charles II commissioned the French designer André Le Nôtre to produce plans for a formal layout on the site. Unfortunately, Le Nôtre never visited Greenwich and failed to take account of the steep escarpment dividing the park. Instead of the central tree-lined avenue leading up to the Queen's House, it actually leads to the edge of an 100-foot drop.

This oversight, however, provides the modern visitor with unparalleled views over London. From the viewing area, St Paul's Cathedral, the Canary Wharf developments and the great sweep of the River Thames through London are all visible.

The Old Royal Observatory next to the viewing area was commissioned by Charles II and designed by Christopher Wren. Built in 1675 on the site of an old watchtower, there have been a number of additions to Wren's original design.

The Observatory later moved to Sussex and is now in Cambridge. The Greenwich buildings these days house an exhibition of scientific instruments and a Planetarium. On one wall of the Observatory is the GMT 24-hour clock and nearby a line on the path showing the Greenwich Prime Meridian. There cannot be many walks in this country that allow you to stand with a foot in each of the world's hemisphere.

In 1894 there was an attempt to blow up the Observatory, but the bomb exploded prematurely, killing the carrier. It was this incident that inspired Joseph Conrad's classic story, The Secret Agent.

The Maritime Museum contains the finest collection of naval artefacts in the country. At the centre of the museum is the Queens House. It was built as a gift from James I to his wife Queen Anne, although it was not completed until the reign of Charles I. Designed by Inigo Jones, it is one of the finest examples of his work, drawn heavily on the Italian villa style with simple lines and little outward decoration.

The work of another great English architect is well represented in Greenwich. Nicholas Hawksmoor was commissioned to provide a new parish church after a great storm in 1710 destroyed the old one. He built St Alphege on the supposed site of the martyrdom of Archbishop Alphege by the Danes in 1012. The many famous people who have attended the church have their names recorded on plaques and tombstones. Across from the church is the covered market, which holds a craft fair at weekends.

The Cutty Sark is perhaps Greenwich's best known landmark. The last surviving clipper ship, she sits in dry dock overlooking the Thames. Built in 1869 on the River Clyde, the Cutty Sark could reach a speed of over 17 knots and cover 360 miles a day. Originally built from for the tea trade, she made her name as a wool clipper, sailing back and forth to Australia.

Just downstream is the Royal Naval College. The site it occupies is one of the most historic locations in Greenwich. The original foundations of the Royal Palace of Placentia, this palace was used by the English monarchy from 1447 until the restoration. It fell into disrepair during the interregnum and was pulled down by Charles II. The king had great plans for the riverside site, but his grandiose designs were never realised. A notoriously fickle monarch, he lost interest with the project and only the King Charles building was completed.

It was not until the reign of William and Mary, who granted a charter for the foundation of a Royal Hospital for Seaman in 1694, that work restarted on the site, this time under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren. From the outset, however, great restrictions were placed on his design. Queen Mary insisted he made a line of site from the Queen's House to the Thames. Wren was left with little choice but to create an avenue through the middle of his building - this effectively made the Queen's House the centrepiece of his design - a role the building is simply not grand enough to fulfil.

Next to the Naval College is the Trafalgar Tavern on Park Row. It was built in 1837 and became famous for its 'Cabinet Whitebait Dinners', when members of the government would come down the Thames in barges to dine there. The pub is mentioned in Charles Dickens 'Our Mutual Friend' and the author was a regular visitor.

Down the alleyway behind the Trafalgar is Trinity Hospital. It was established in 1613 by the Earl of Norfolk, who founded a number of such charitable institutions. Today it still fulfils its original purpose of providing homes for the elderly.

The path leading to Vanbrugh Castle has excellent views back across the Thames to the east end of London. Vanbrugh Castle lies just outside the walls of the park. Sir John Vanbrugh designed the building and lived there between 1717 and 1726. The castle was built as 'The Bastille', both because of its appearance, resembling a medieval fortress, and because its architect had been held in the French prison as an English spy.