Singleton, The Trundle, Goodwood and Charlton

A walk over downs, to a hill fort, beside racing turf and to an open-air museum

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Statistics and Files
Start: Singleton Church Distance: 4.8 miles (7.8 km) Climbing: 180 metres
Grid Ref: SU 87800 13063 Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Singleton
Statistics
Start: Singleton Church Distance: 4.8 miles (7.8 km)
Climbing: 180 metres Grid Ref: SU 87800 13063
Time: 2-3 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: This downland walk starts in the attractive old village of Singleton, climbs up onto the Downs, to the highest point in the area, and skirts Goodwood Racecourse before descending to Charlton and back into Singleton. This is good walking country at any time of the year, but is perhaps best in summer when the countryside is a riot of colour.

For centuries, the Downs were mainly sheep pasture, but serial production became the major land use during and after World War Two. Now pasture and cornfields make a pattern of green and gold, with occasional patches of rape, flax or broad beans.

St Mary's Church, SingletonSt Mary's Church, Singleton
The Trundle, St Roche's HillThe Trundle, St Roche's Hill

The village of Singleton nestles among the valley of the River Lavant. It is an old village mentioned in the Domesday Book. Although occupying an important site on the route from Chichester to London, much of its growth came after Goodwood Racecourse was opened on the Downs south of the village in 18O1.

Most of the old flint and red-brick cottages clustered near the centre of the village have tiled roofs. A few retain their original thatch. The small gardens are full of flowers in summer. The village still has a small duck pond and a cricket pitch, and the post office has been built onto the old toll-gate cottage. There are two pubs, both of which date from the 18th century, where excellent food and ales are available.

Singleton was the centre of the 'Hundred of Singleton', owned by the Saxon Earl Godwin, the father of the King Harold, killed in 1066 at the Battle of Hastings. The earl gave his name to Goodwood, which is derived from the 'wood of Godwin'.

The nave walls of the 1,000 year old church are Saxon, and there was an upper room in which it is believed that the priests lived. The triangular headed Saxon doorway halfway up the tower is probably the door which led into this room. Behind the altar is a reredos of Caen stone depicting the Last Supper, and there are several other features of interest in this little church. In the porch there are numerous examples of medieval graffiti scratched in the stone by passing pilgrims.

The climb from Singleton reaches its high point at the Trundle, more correctly called St Roche's Hill, which rises to 676 feet (206m). There are neolithic earthworks on the hill, dating from 2,500 BC. These early settlers use flint implements and could produce their own pottery. The Iron Age Celts used Trundle Hill as a fort from 400 to 300 BC and the Romans also made use of this prime hilltop site.

There are magnificent views in all directions. In medieval times, the chapel of St Roche was constructed here, and although nothing remains above ground, the foundations have been found beneath the grass. A windmill stood on the hill until 1791, when it was destroyed by lightning. It was once used as a makeshift gallows for smugglers.

Looking east from the Trundle, there is an excellent view of Goodwood Racecourse with its handsome stands and its emerald green track, picked out by white rails. Opened in 1801, it proved an immediate success and was boosted even more when the railway reached here in 1890. The racecourse had its own station between West Dean and Singleton, but it closed for passenger traffic in 1935. The July meeting at the racecourse is internationally famous and the event is affectionally known as 'Glorious Goodwood'.

Goodwood RacecourseGoodwood Racecourse
Market Square, Weald and Downland Living MuseumMarket Square, Weald and Downland Living Museum

Just over one mile to the south of the racecourse is Goodwood House, the seat of the Dukes of Richmond and Gordon. Built in the late 18th century, the building makes much use of flint and is set in beautiful parkland. In the park is the Shell House, a small pavilion covered completely with seashells, which was created by Sarah, 2nd Duchess of Richmond, in 1739.

The walk returns to the Lavant Valley via the woods of Charlton Park, where there is an abundance of wildlife. The woods are home to a variety of birds, from finches, tits and warblers to larger birds such as jays and pheasants. Red legged partridges are particularly numerous in the Singleton area, as they are bred at Manor Farm.

Much damage is done to the trees here in times of hurricanes and strong gales. The fallen trees reveal how shallow their roots are in the thin, chalky downward soil in these parts.

The small village of Charlton is now a quiet residential area, apart from the noise of the saw mill, but was a place of some renown in the 18th century. The Charlton Hunt was the most famous in England, and as many as 153 hunters were stabled in and near Charlton. Fox Hall was built in 1730 as a hunting lodge by the Duke of Richmond, whose descendants still own many of the houses in the area, and much of the land. The hunt would gather outside the massive house with its tall chimneys before setting off onto the downs.

The Fox Inn also dates from the early 18th century. Next door are twin hunting lodges built for the Duke of Devonshire and Lord Harcourt, though these buildings later became a farm.

The Weald and Downland Open Air Museum just outside Singleton was founded by Mr JR Armstrong in 1967. It has the aim of preserving ancient buildings that would have been demolished on their original sites. More than 30 vernacular buildings from the south-east of England have now been re-erected here. You can recapture the past by visiting houses - ranging from a grand house from Walderton to a humble medieval cottage from Hangleton - that are accurately furnished to reflect the times in which they were first used.

As well as houses, the museum also has barns, cattle sheds, a granary and old school building, a tall cottage and a joiner's shop. While walking around the museum, you can see craftsman at work and watch a water wheel provide the energy to grind flour.


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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