Chaldon Church, Old Coulsdon and Happy Valley

This walk through beautiful Surrey downland begins at Chaldon Church, which contains one of England's treasures. On the west wall is a mural, measuring 17 feet (5.2 metres) by 11 feet (3.3 metres). Dating from the 12th century, it is the earliest known English wall painting.

The picture, popularly named the Doom Painting, is divided into two parts. The upper part shows men and women being welcomed by Angels into heaven, and the lower one depicts large, evil looking devils punishing the wicked. The artist, supposedly a travelling monk, plays all the best qualities of the medieval mind - humour, liveliness and a deep, sincere piety.

The pulpit, dated 1657, is one of very few to have been erected during the rule of Oliver Cromwell, and the ancient font, carved out of a single block of local stone, is also remarkable. The tool marks of the medieval masons are clearly visible. From the church, you walk across the aptly named Happy Valley towards Old Coulsdon. At Coulsdon Common you pass the Fox Country Pub, a welcome stop for refreshments during the walk.

Once past Coulsdon Common, you pass a wooded area, Parsons Pightle, the land allocated by Saxon law to the resident priest. Woodlands further on show signs of careful management in the past, with many coppiced hazels. The hazels were regularly cut down, almost to ground level, so that they would produce a crop of vigorous young shoots that could be cut for building and fencing. The sharp eyed may also spots badgers setts here.

The route skirts Old Coulsdon and returns to the Downs. The ground is hard chalk with flint and is mostly unfarmed. A great variety of downland wild flowers, lovers of chalk soil, can be found in the area. Farthing Downs are crossed by a very old route marked by Bronze Age tumuli. Further north, there is an extensive Celtic rectangular field system.

Note this is a very popular walking area and its reputation has been enchanced in recent times by the fact that a number of named walking routes cross the area. Indeed, while walking this route you follow sections of three of them; the London Loop, Tandridge Border Path and Downlands Circular Walk.

From the heights beyond Devilsden Wood there is a beautiful view of Happy Valley and there are some good spots at which to stop for a picnic. The route continues along the side of the valley through Devilsden Wood, literally 'the dark place', with its sombre glades of yew, it lives up to its name. Adding contrast are tall beeches and oaks and very large hawthorns. Wild clematis drapes the downland bushes, and the paths are bordered with wild mint. After exploring Happy Valley, you rejoin the path and walk back to the starting point at the church.