Stoughton, Bow Hill, Kingley Vale and Devil's Humps

Through woods to an extensive nature reserve on the South Downs

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Statistics and Files
Start: Stoughton Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km) Climbing: 170 metres
Grid Ref: SU 80477 11560 Time: 2 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Stoughton
Statistics
Start: Stoughton Distance: 4.2 miles (6.7 km)
Climbing: 170 metres Grid Ref: SU 80477 11560
Time: 2 hours Rating: Moderate
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: This is a walk through truly rural surroundings, probably seen at their best in summer, but also beautiful at other seasons, even under a cover of snow. It begins on the outskirts of the flinty village of Stoughton, tucked into a fold in the South Downs. More flints will be seen on the track leading up through the fields to the woods, which crown Bow Hill. The path is edged with wild flowers; harebells, white campion, ragwort and toadflax can all be seen in their seasons.

Swallows and martins fly around the farm buildings at the beginning of the walk during the summer months, with buntings, wagtails and other birds to be seen further on. Pheasants are quite numerous in the arable fields to either side of the track. As you climb, you are likely to see sheep, especially in the dry valley to your right, while, in the autumn, fallow bucks may be heard groaning as they stake their claims during the rut.

St Mary's Church, StoughtonSt Mary's Church, Stoughton
Kingley Vale National Nature ReserveKingley Vale National Nature Reserve

If you are very lucky, you may catch a glimpse of a fallow deer as you enter the woods, but they are very shy. This is mixed woodland; beeches grow here though not as thickly as in other parts of the Downs, along with yew, hazel and several conifers. Blackberries grow in profusion around the woodland edges, and you can often catch the sweet scent of honeysuckle. Sloes also berry profusely here.

When you leave the wood behind to cross open grassland just below the summit of Bow Hill, there are excellent views out over the tops of the trees, both from a flinted marker stone which shows the direction of visible landmarks, and from the top of the Devil's Humps.

These four Bronze Age mounds, around 3,500 years old, are known as bell barrows from their shape. They are among the best examples in England, but they have been dug out and plundered, which is why they have hollowed out centres.

South from here and down the hill is the main part of the Kingley Vale National Nature Reserve. The 500 acre site is very important nationally and is managed by Natural England. It has an information centre and a nature trail. Within the reserve there is a large area of grass downland and shrubland with a number of old yew trees.

Ancient Yew Tree in Kingley Vale Nature ReserveAncient Yew Tree in Kingley Vale Nature Reserve
Devil's HumpsDevil's Humps

Where the route goes into the woods beyond the Devil's Humps, another path leads downhill into the heart of the reserve, where superficial deposits over the chalk have created a different habitat.

That is the wealth of birdlife in these woods, including nightingales and green woodpeckers, some 39 species of butterfly and about twelve varieties of orchid, among other wild flowers. Oak, holly and hawthorne grow well, but the most famous denizens of the forest are the ywes. Most are 75 to 300 years old, but several of the trees have been here for five centuries or more.

After crossing downland with wonderful views of the village of Stoughton, you re-enter the village between the delightful little flint buildings of Tythe House Barn and some horse stables on the right. Further north, Saint Mary's church is a substantial building, much larger than necessary in such a modest village. There are suggestions that the village shrank in size after the Black Death in the 14th century. The church is a Saxon Foundation; the chancel dates from the year 1050.

Guide to Kingley Vale walk (PDF file)


Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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