Richmond Park Perambulation

A haven of tranquility within sight of the City of London

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Statistics and Files
Start: Pembroke Lodge Distance: 5.7 miles (9.2 km) Climbing: 75 metres
Grid Ref: TQ 18713 72844 Time: 3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Richmond Park
Statistics
Start: Pembroke Lodge Distance: 5.7 miles (9.2 km)
Climbing: 75 metres Grid Ref: TQ 18713 72844
Time: 3 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: Richmond Park is the largest of the Royal Parks, covering an area of 2,500 acres. Its bracken-covered, rolling grassland landscape, dotted with plantations, supports a diverse flora and fauna, including ancient oaks, herds of deer, and many species of birds. The park was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) in 1992. It provides a peaceful natural setting for a country walk, yet on a clear day there are excellent panoramas of central London.

The walk begins at the car park near Pembroke Lodge, an attractive building set in pleasant gardens. 'Molecatcher's Cottage' originally occupied the site, but Elizabeth, Countess of Pembroke, one of the reigning beauties in George III's court, had the place rebuilt and renamed. The king visited her there on occasions.

In 1847, Queen Victoria granted the tenancy of Pembroke Lodge to Lord John, the first Earl Russell. His grandson, the philosopher, mathematician, and social reformer Bertrand Russell, lived here as a child from 1876-1890.

Pembroke Lodge, Richmond ParkPembroke Lodge, Richmond Park
Deer grazing in Richmond ParkDeer grazing in Richmond Park

Beyond Pembroke Lodge Gardens, the route continues through open parkland, along a ridge topped by an avenue of hornbeams, towards Ham. Along the way, there are fine views of Petersham Park, Ham Bottom and beyond.

The 'yaffle' call of the green woodpecker is often heard here, and there are many ancient oaks, including a magnificent specimen known as 'Martin's Oak', named after the Victorian painter John Martin. A little further on is a large mound topped by a gaunt oak. The mound, best seen in winter or spring before the bracken has grown tall, is believed to be a prehistoric tomb. Other evidence of prehistoric occupation of the area includes worked flints found in the gravel of Pen Ponds.

On the way from Ham Cross, you may well spot deer in Hamcross Plantation to your left. It is a favourite spot for them, particularly in late spring when the streams and ditches in the wood affords some protection for newborn fawns.

The Isabella Plantation was originally enclosed by Viscount Sidmouth, Deputy Ranger of the park, in the 19th century. The area was named 'Isabell Slade' as early as 1771, but no record has yet been discovered associating a lady of that name with the park. In recent years, a delightful woodland garden has been created, with a wide collection of acid-loving, flowering shrubs such as rhododendron, azalea, camellia, magnolia and heather. Through the centre runs a lovely brook, artificially diverted and edged with waterside plants.

From here, the route winds north past the Pond Plantation to arrive at the Pen Ponds. Created in the 18th century from old gravel pits, Pen Ponds now attract many visitors, as well as large numbers of waterfowl. Mallard, tufted duck, pochard, teal, gadwall, wigeon, shoveler, golden eye, gulls, herons and Canada geese visit regularly, and more rarely there are goosanders, red-necked grebes and migrating terns.

The path crosses Queen's Ride, a fine avenue bordered by oaks and sweet chestnuts. It is named after George II's Queen Caroline. The classical building visible at the end of the ride is White Lodge, built in about 1728 by George II as a retreat for himself and his family.

Vicount Sidmouth lived there from 1801-1844 and was visited by many eminent men, including Sir Walter Scott (who sat part of his novel 'Heart of Midlothian' in the park), R B Sheridan, and Admiral Lord Nelson. In September, 1805, five weeks before Trafalgar, Nelson is said to have sketched his battle plan in wine on the dining table.

Pen Ponds, Richmond ParkPen Ponds, Richmond Park
The Bog, Richmond ParkThe Bog, Richmond Park

Rounding Saw Pit Plantation - the park's natural resources have been exploited in the past - the path leads to Barn Wood, which contains some of the finest old oaks in the park. Deans Lane, an ancient drovers road, ran through the wood on its way from Kingston to Mortlake. Here, some of the oldest trees lean in from the bank that marks the line of the lane.

Close by the older generation of oaks, younger trees, protected from the deer by wooden fences, mark the new 'Two Storm Wood', planted to commemorate the trees destroyed in the great storms of 1987 and 1989.

To the west of the wood, Holly Lodge, formerly Bog Lodge, was the parts administrative centre and the base for the Royal Parks Constabulary. That changed in 1995 when it became an educational establishment titled the Holly Lodge Centre. Beyond it, the route re-crosses Queen's Ride and the full sweep of this impressive avenue can be appreciated as you pass Sidmouth Wood. There are spectacular panoramas behind of the City of London and Docklands.

As you re-enter Pembroke Lodge Gardens, pause to read the rustic memorial to 'James Thompson, poet of nature' and make your way to King Henry VII's Mound. This is probably another prehistoric burial mound. It certainly existed in 1637, when it was known as the King's Standynge. Legend has it that while he was out hunting, Henry VIII stood on the mound to hear gunfire from the Tower of London to signal the execution of Anne Boleyn.

From the top of the mound, there are spectacular views of south-west London, with glimpses of the River Thames, Ham House and Twickenham Rugby Football Ground. On a clear day, if you turn around and peer towards Sidmouth Wood, through the gap in the greenery, you can see St Paul's Cathedral, perfectly framed by the trees along a protected sight-line.


For up to date information on Richmond Park, visit Royal Parks - Richmond Park
Acknowledgment: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.


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