Bodiam Castle and Ewhurst Green

Bodiam was built in response to raids by the French during the 100 Years War, when Winchelsea and Rye were both sacked. At this time, the River Rother was navigable, and the castle thus guarded a possible invasion route to London from the south. It was never put to the test, however. The fortification did witness a skirmish in the Wars of the Roses, and was partially dismantled by Parliamentarians in the Civil War to stop it being used by Royalists.

The walk begins by rounding three sides of the moat, giving a good view of the formidable defence. A lane passes the resited bridge and runs uphill to a road. Opposite is a tall Gothic schoolhouse, with a conspicuous wooden clock tower painted white.

A quiet path runs downhill to the village and affords wide views over the valley ahead. Beyond the Castle Inn, the route follows the banks of the River Rother. The river is still navigable for small crafts as far as Bodiam Bridge, and a boat service runs in summer from Northiam. However, as you head upstream, the river becomes too narrow and reeds and water lilies grow in abundance. In summer, the pink and mauve blossoms of comfrey grow in profusion on the banks. The herb is still occasionally used as a poultice for sprains and bruises.

Soon after passing a pumping station, the route joins the road to cross the river. On the other side, a new path leads around an attractive tile-hung farmhouse, at Udium.

A bridleway and an old boundary lane leads you to a natural embankment of sandstone, some eight feet high. Down the hill to the north is the aptly named Rocks Farm, and, a little further on, a disused quarry. It was from local stones such as this, probably cut here, that much of Bodiam Castle was built.

Next you arrive, via the suburb of Snagshall, at the village of Ewhurst Green. The parish church is dedicated to St James the Great and is Grade I listed. The church dates from the Norman period and has an unusually shaped spire. It also has a marble font, dating from the 12th or 13th century. Opposite the church is the White Dog Inn which is the ideal spot for a refreshment break during the walk. Curiously, the White Dog was previously called the Castle Inn. The name was changed in the late 1960's to avoid confusion with the Castle Inn, Bodiam.

From Ewhurst Green, after walking back towards Snagshall, the route heads north to a restored railway track. This is the Kent and East Sussex Line, which ran from Robertsbridge to Tenterden. Railway enthusiasts have restored the line, which closed to passenger traffic in 1954 and to freight traffic in 1961, and now, once again, steam trains run an extended service from Bodiam to Tenterden.

From the railway there is an impressive view of the castle. Across the flat fields, on the south facing slopes behind it, are rows of grape vines which thrive on the sandy soil and produce increasingly popular Sussex wines. On the other side of the field is the Rother which is highly-banked here to prevent flooding. The walk follows this embankment to return to Bodiam and the car park.