Whitchurch, Laverstoke and Freefolk

The White Hart is an old coaching inn, and stood on the routes from Salisbury to London and from Oxford to Winchester. The position of Whitchurch at a river crossing, where two major routes met, made it one of the largest towns in Hampshire by the 16th century.

One of the town's most illustrious residents was Lord Denning, former Master of the Roles. A plaque marks his birthplace, 5 Newbury Street, where his parents had a draper's shop. He was taught at the Old School House in London Street.

After leaving Whitchurch, the route picks up the Harroway, a prehistoric trackway. You may well see a charm of noisy goldfinches here in summer, feeding on the seed heads of the plentiful thistles. You will also probably spot a few rabbits - this rolling countryside was the setting for Richard Adams epic 'Watership Down'. The route crosses the railway, the rabbit's 'iron road' and eventually the iver Test, the 'Great River' negotiated by the rabbits at Laverstock.

At Freefolk, the route passes the Victorian church of St Mary the Virgin, and the old school, now closed, which dates back to 1850. A short detour takes you to a curious row of eighteen half-thatched cottages. These alms houses were built by Lord Portal in 1939 in an arts and crafts style, although they could be mistaken for much older houses.

The route passes the entrance to Laverstock Park and the driveway to Laverstock House, built in the 18th century in the classical revival style by Joseph Bonomi. The park is known for its superb beech trees. Both house and grounds are private.

The clear, iron-free water of chalk streams, such as the Test, were ideal for paper making. Laverstock Mill was acquired by Henry de Portal, a French Huguenot refugee who built a new mill there in 1718. In 1724, he gained a contract to supply the Bank of England with paper for banknotes; in 1950, production was moved from Laverstock to another Portal mill at nearby Overton. The present Lavertock Mill is now used for the development of gin.

The tiny 13th century church of St Nicholas in Freefolk was the parish church until 1896. It is now maintained by the Redundant Churches Fund. It contains an impressive monument to Sir Richard Powlett, depicted reclining in armour with his two daughters.

Further along is Bere Mill, a picturesque weatherboarded house. This was the first Portal's paper mill where Henri perfected his paper making skills. Bere Mill Meadows is a lovely spot from which to watch the trout swimming in the clear running River Test, by the 18th century brick bridge.

The return route affords glimpses of the glittering Test, and watercress beds through trees to your right. Town Mill, standing over the river, was a flour mill. The attractive weatherboarded building and water-wheel can be viewed from a footbridge over the swirling waters.

Whitchurch Silk Mill, near the end of the walk, is on an island in the Test. It was built around 1800 on the site of an ancient corn mill. In 1816 the mill was sold and then used for the hand weaving of wool. But it turned to silk production in 1830. It has been restored to working order by the Hampshire Buildings Preservation Trust.