The Abbey Church of St Mary and St Melor dates from the 12th century, although the majority of the building can be traced to the 13th century. Although long known as the Abbey Church, its links with the monastic house are not clear.
The first Amesbury Abbey, variously recorded as Ambrosbury, Ambresbury or Amblesbury, was founded in AD 980 by Queen Ælfthryth (Ethelfrida), in penance for her part in the murder of her stepson, Edward the Martyr, at Corfe Castle. Arthurian legend suggests that an even earlier abbey existed and that it was connected with Queen Guinevere.
By the 12th century, the nuns had become corrupt. Henry II turned them all out and replaced them with a more disciplined set. After the Dissolution of the Monasteries, the convent was demolished and a new mansion, designed by Inigo Jones, was built on the site.
There, the Duchess of Queensberry is alleged to have encouraged John Gay to write The Beggar's Opera in 1728. A cave in the grounds, known as Gay's Cave, is where he is supposed to have worked.
The present Amesbury Abbey was rebuilt in 1840 and is a private nursing home. The fine mansion, set in a park, can be glimpsed through the imposing stone entrance pillars next to the church.
The route crosses a footbridge over the River Avon alongside the Queensberry Bridge of 1775, then goes over the downs. Ahead there is a tumulus behind a chalk pit gouged from the hillside. Horizontal layers of black flint, such as was used for arrowheads by Neolithic man, can be distinguished in the chalk.
You follow a stream, then re-cross the River Avon. Many species of water-loving plant flourish in the damp woodland here. You may spot the aromatic water mint, comfrey, water parsnip, and marsh woundwort. The waterside is lined with the colourful spikes of purple loosestrife, pink and white Himalayan balsam, and great willowherb.
In the delightful hamlet of Wilsford is St Michael's Church, set in a pretty churchyard with roses growing around the porch. Part of the foundations are 12th-century, and there are some Norman arches and chevron mouldings, but the majority of the building was completed in the 14th and 15th centuries. In 1852 it was completely renovated by Giles Loder, who faithfully copied the Early English style. The most interesting modern feature is a memorial by Eric Gill (1882–1940). This sculptor, wood engraver, and typographer was the notorious focal figure of a series of 'Arts and Crafts' communities.
The churchyard contains several graves of members of the Tennant family, a clue to the colourful past of the neighbouring Wilsford Manor, which is privately owned. The house, visible through the gateway, is in 17th-century style, with flint and stone chequerwork, gables, and mullioned windows. It was actually built in 1903 on the site of a medieval manor for Edward Tennant, the first Baron Glenconner, and his wife, Pamela Wyndham.
Their son, Stephen, was one of the 20th century's more eccentric characters. Wilsford Manor, where he spent his later years lying in 'decorative reclusion' among his seashells, jewels, and polar bear skins, achieved nationwide fame when its contents were auctioned after his death in 1987. Newspapers retold Stephen's fascinating, frivolous life. Wilsford Manor was host in its heyday to the Mitfords, the Sitwells, and the Bloomsbury set.
A refreshing climb up the downs is rewarded with the first view of Stonehenge. From the viewpoint, the path descends to skirt Springbottom Farm, then turns up towards Salisbury Plain and Stonehenge. The Bronze Age bowl and disc barrows on either side of the path include the famous Bush Barrow, visible at the far left of the group. In 1808, excavations found a skeleton buried with grave goods including gold lozenges (symbols of wealth), a belt hook, a bronze axe, a spearhead, and a wooden dagger handle with a zigzag pattern of tiny gold pins.
You approach Stonehenge along a path known as the Druids Lodge Track. In fact, the Druids, a Celtic priesthood, came late to Stonehenge. They did not arrive much before 250 BC, while the first monument on the site may date back to 2800 BC.
The plain surrounding the henge contains a large number of other prehistoric features, some visible from the route back to Amesbury. The Avenue, whose parallel banks extend from the monument in approximate alignment with the dawn of the summer solstice, was probably a Bronze Age ceremonial approach to Stonehenge.
On the ridge to the north of Stonehenge is the Cursus. These parallel Neolithic ditches remain a mystery. King Barrows lie at right angles to the A303 and are part of the Bronze Age barrow cemetery. Vespasian's Camp, an overgrown Iron Age hillfort, lies between the A303 and the road into Amesbury.
If you have time on the walk back, make sure to look around the small village of West Amesbury with its beautiful thatched cottages and the listed West Amesbury House. Once back at the main car park in Amesbury, you will notice a standing stone by the exit. This is the same type of bluestone, from Wales's Preseli Mountains, that was erected at Stonehenge. Placed there for charity in 1981, the stone neatly links the modern town and its fascinating prehistoric surroundings.
