Machynlleth and Glyndwr's Way

This was a romantic climax of the dream that still inspires the national spirit of Wales - the fulfilment of visions and prophecies. Owain Glyndwr can still 'call spirits from the vastly deep' here. Glyndwr may well have used the tracks that form the route of this walk, but much else has changed. The difference begins at the tourist information centre in Machynlleth where the Glyndwr institute houses an interesting exhibition, given an introduction to the valley of the River Dyfi. The exhibition would seem to be set within a fine example of a late medieval Welsh townhouse. In fact, it is mock, built in 1911.

The Plas, or mansion, is the real thing, dating from 1653 but with its present frontage added in 1853. Then it was the home of Henry Vane-Tempest, who became the fifth Marquis of Londonderry in 1872. Many distinguished visitors were to find their way here. Lord Randolph Churchill, father of Sir Winston Churchill and the fifth Marquis’ nephew, was a frequent guest. King Edward VII and Queen Alexandra came in 1896, when they were the Prince and Princess of Wales, while King George V, Queen Mary and the Duke of Windsor, then Prince of Wales, visited in 1911. The seventh Marquis presented the Plas to the town in 1948 and its foyer houses a fine exhibition of family portraits.

How old are the Roman steps? Anything that was very old used to be attributed to the Romans and it is true that they probably had a look out post on Wylfa, the hill south west of the town to which the steps lead. Their main base was at Pennal, where the fort of Cefn Caer guarded the ancient road of Sarn Helen at its crossing point of the River Dyfi, about four miles west of Machynlleth. This may have become the lowest ford across the Dyfi during the 6th century, when the legendary land of Cantre’r Gwaelod in Cardigan Bay was flooded. These steps, or the route up which they are cut, may be much older. Ancient Britain had many roads or trackways, with Dyfnwal Moelmud and his son Belinus, tribal chieftains, famed for constructing them in the 5th century BC. They often led to mines like the lead mines east of Machynlleth, which are pre-Roman.

Local legend has it that Bryn-Glas is reputedly where Glyndwr stayed during the period of his coronation. If this is so, you may well be following in his footsteps. The lake Lynn Glanmerin is not a feature that Glyndwr would have recognised. It is not marked on old maps, since it was artificially created in 1911 for a local hydroelectricity scheme. It blends well into the landscape and can offer marvellous reflections of the hills to the south. Rich in wildlife, it is reed fringed and provides a home for dragonflies. Ducks and coot may be glimpsed among the water lilies.

Brynturnol means ‘Turn Back Hill’. This black and white house is where stage coaches could hire extra horses need to pull them up the old road towards Aberystwyth.

The old slate tram road ran from Aberllefeni to Derwenlas, the small port two miles west of Machynlleth. Slate was taken to the port from the quarries at Corris and Aberllefeni, five miles north-east of Machynlleth. Horses were used at first, but by 1855 the demand for slate warranted the construction of a tram road. The first tram ran over it on the 30th of April 1859. This was still horse drawn, but made shorter work of the nearly 13 miles from the quarry at Aberllefeni down to the quay at Derwenlas. However, only four years later, the route was made obsolete by the opening of the steam railway between Machynlleth and Newtown The section north of Machynlleth was used by steam engines to haul slate down to the main line at Machynlleth but the port of Derwenlas lost its traffic.

Pause when you are below the ramp leading to the school. The metal railings on your left stand above an old well. Reach this by going ahead at pace and taking the steps down to it on your left. It is known as Garsiwn Well and its name derived from the time when the future Henry VII stopped here with his army on his way from Pembroke to the Battle of Bosworth Field in August 1485. Henry’s troops used the well, as did the majority of the population living at the western end of Machynlleth until the 1970’s.

Poplar Square merges into Garsiwn Square, indicating that soldiers used to be garrisoned here. This area was noted for its weavers cottages in the early 19th century, before the woollen industry became concentrated in Yorkshire.

The Royal House is where Dafydd Gam was imprisoned between 1404 and 1412. A loyal servant of the English King, Henry IV, Glyndwr’s arch enemy, he had attempted to assassinate the great Welsh patriot. Later, he was to fight alongside Henry V at the Battle of Agincourt. The house acquired its royal name when King Charles I stayed in it during a visit in 1643.

The town clock was built to celebrate the coming of age of Charles Stewart Vane-Tempest, Viscount Castlereagh, the eldest son of the 5th Marquis of Londonderry. The laying of the foundation stone was delayed for nearly a year until 15th March 1874, the day before Charles 22nd birthday. The 78 foot high tower stands on the site of the old town hall where the court case described in George Borrow’s classic travel book,'Wild Wales' was held in 1854.

The Parliament House may not date from 1404 but it is certainly a medieval building. This is the spot that Owain Glyndwr chose to hold a parliament and to be crowned.