Talley Abbey and the Lakes

The walk begins in Talley, heading off first into the countryside, and taking in the ruins at the end. Beyond the 18th century Talley House, quiet country lanes lead up from the valley floor between ancient hedgerows of beech, oak and holly, and overhanging evergreen clumps of hart's tongue fern.

You climb through shadowy woodland, which attracts many butterflies, including the comma, speckled wood and delightful silver-washed fritillary. The path emerges onto high, open farmland, which throbs with insect life in summer, prey for countless spiders and the handsome golden ringed dragonfly, which patrols its territory along the woodland edge. Coarse mountain grasses are dotted with mountain pansies and harebells. Below is our vista of emerald fields.

A long broad avenue of oaks, that stretches away to the north, was once the drive to Edwinsford, which stands above a bend on the River Cothi. Edwinsford was the ancestral home of the Williams family, prominent figures in Carmarthenshire politics in the 18th and 19th centuries. Built partly in the style of an elegant French chateau, it was occupied during World War II by Polish refugees, who grew mushrooms under the floorboards. Today, the old house lies abandoned.

A road leads above Talley's twin lakes, rich mineral pools formed in glacial hollows. One drains to the north, the other to the south. Between them, hidden by trees is a motte, whose origins are obscure.

The lower lake is a nature reserve. Archaeological studies of pollen deposits in the mud have given scientists an accurate picture of the change in vegetation at the dawning of the Bronze Age, when oak, ash, hazel and elm were felled to provide farmland.

The lakes offer an ideal habitat for cormorant, great crested grebe, tufted duck, coot and mute swan. Their crystal clear waters are brightened by floating water lilies, beneath which lurk massive pike.

You re-enter Talley close to the church, which dates from 1772. a classic bell-cote church with flagged floors, its simple, timeless beauty was augmented in the 1980's by a stained glass window donated by a local quarry owner.

Just to the south are the remains of the abbey, which was founded by Rhys ap Gruffydd, a powerful Welsh Prince of the late 12th century. It was a splendid building, 300 feet long and 100 feet high, and was the only house in Wales belonging to the Premonstratensian Order, which originated in Prémontré, France, in 1119. They were known as the white canons, from their habits, and lived by the orders motto 'Devotion, learning and service'.

Caring for the sick, and fulfilling parochial duties in the parish, the white canons both farmed and worshipped here for over 300 years. The abbey was badly damaged in Owain Glyndwr's uprising. By the time of the Dissolution, only eight canons remained. They left behind a place of haunting serenity, its ancient walls steeped in prayer and thoughtful meditation.