Hoxne, Billingford and Oakley

Walking around a border village steeped in Saxon history

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Statistics and Files
Start: Hoxne Distance: 5.0 miles (8.1 km) Climbing: 29 metres
Grid Ref: TM 18028 77231 Time: 2 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File About Hoxne
Statistics
Start: Hoxne Distance: 5.0 miles (8.1 km)
Climbing: 29 metres Grid Ref: TM 18028 77231
Time: 2 hours Rating: Easy
GPX Route File Google Earth File
Ordnance Survey Explorer Map (1:25,000)

The Walk: Hoxne, pronounced Hox-en, is a quiet, attractive village above the valley of the River Waveney, which here separates Suffolk from Norfolk. More than 1,000 years ago, it was a far less peaceful place, with clashes between the Saxon settlers and incursive Danes.

After one of these battles, the Saxon King Edmund was captured at Hoxne and executed by the Vikings. The devout Edmund was sanctified soon afterwards, and he was disinterred from his grave in Hoxne and reburied in the abbey at Bury St Edmunds, where his tomb became a magnet for pilgrims.

There are several reminders of Edmund in and around the village, while the mellow countryside round about offers the walker plenty of interest throughout the year.

The Swan Inn, HoxneThe Swan Inn, Hoxne
Hoxne village centreHoxne village centre

The walk begins in the ancient centre of the village, an elegant, long, thin green surrounded by old houses, some of them thatched. A Saturday market was held here in Saxon times and continued until a Norman Lord, William Malet, built a castle at Eye and opened a Saturday market there. The Hoxne market day was changed to Wednesday.

A lane leads from the north-east corner of the green to the Church of St Peter and St Paul. The fabric is relatively undistinguished for Suffolk, though there were some fading ancient wall paintings and a carved bench-end depicting a wolfhound with King Edmund's head in its jaws. A screen in the church contains wood from the oak to which Edmund was tied when he was killed. The tree fell in 1848.

The church is full of interesting material about the village. There are displays of local history, including remnants from the local brickworks out along the Eye road. By the north aisle is a display concerning the history of witchcraft in the village.

Francis Hutchinson, vicar here from 1690 to 1708, went against contemporary feelings by being overtly critical of the persecution of alleged witches. There is a reference to the last witch in the village who lived there as recently as 1949.

You leave the village along Watermill Lane, with views ahead to the Thorpe Abbotts Church, across the Waveney valley in Norfolk. Moor Bridge crosses the river proper, but the next bridge by the weir marks the county boundary. The bridge crosses the channel cut in the 1930's as part of a flood protection scheme.

The walk briefly follows the River Waveney. In this area, you may find shells brought to the surface from deposits, mainly clay and marl, laid down two million years ago by a retreating ice cap in what is now known to geologists as the Hoxnian period. At that time, there was a large lake in this area.

For about a mile (1.6 kilometres), the route follows that of the Angles Way, a long distance footpath that runs along the Waveney valley from Great Yarmouth to join up with other long distance paths, The Pedders Way and the Icknield Way. Fields of bulbs on the Norfolk side of the valley are a delight in spring.

Billingford WindmillBillingford Windmill
Billingford Bridge on the River WaveneyBillingford Bridge on the River Waveney

A little to the north of Hall Farm, with its fine Georgian farmhouse, is the Dovehouse, a small square brick building with a pointed roof. At the farm, the route turns towards the village of Billingford. The church here is topped by an enchanted golden cockerel weathervane.

At the crossroads in the village is Billingford Windmill, a tower mill which has a boat shaped cap. These caps are seen in east Suffolk, but are much more common in Norfolk. The mill, now in care of the Norfolk Windmills Trust, was built in 1860 and worked regularly until 1956.

South of the windmill is Billingford Bridge, which takes you back into Suffolk. The walk continues on minor roads to the village of Oakley. The village can be visited by a short detour but if sticking to the route map, at Oakley House, the route turns off east on cart tracks to cross the River Dove at White Bridge. As you climb the hill beyond to Park House, you can see a magnificent stable block with a domed clock tower and blind windows on either side of its arches.

The route passes what was once Hoxne Brickyard, but is now a builders yard. The old brick kiln, a large hemispherical brick structure, strengthened with heavy steel bands, still stands. The moulded clay bricks were carefully stacked inside, a fire was lit, and the bricks were baked slowly for several days.

Beyond Cross Street, one of Hoxne parish's three hamlets, the return route passes through open fields with wide views. In the middle of a field away to your left is a stone cross. On the brick plinth, a memorial cross marks the spot where St Edmund was martyred.


Acknowledgments: Text derived from the Out and Out Series; Discovering the Countryside on Foot. Pictures courtesy of Wikipedia.

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