Mount Everest Base Camp Trek

Day 12: Tuesday 21 February 2012 — Gorak Shep to Pheriche

5.00 am. It is an early rise for those who want to ascend Kala Patthar (5,550m). Only five people attempt it and only one summits and there is no way I could reach the summit, I had no energy. The rest have a late breakfast at 9.00 am, but not much food is eaten! We need to descend. We take a different route at the end of the Khumbu Glacier at Dughla through a stunning old glacial valley to Pheriche, with only a short stop for lunch it takes seven and a half hours to get there. On the right of us all the way down we can see Cholatse (6,335m) and then Tabuche Peak (6,495m) and on the left side is Pokalde (5,693m) and Nangkartshang (5,616m). We are in a large open plain type of valley, but the mountains still tower over us. The ice-cold wind is in our face during the descent so we pick up the pace. Joanne is freezing cold so I lend her my windproof jacket which puts a smile on her face. We in the front group of five make it down at least half an hour quicker than the middle group and an hour in front of the last group. That extra hour in front of the log burner was worth the sprint down. Dinner at 7.00 pm and most are beginning to feel a little better having dropped down over a thousand metres or so. The tearoom is warm, but the light is dim so we have head torches on. Temperature outside is about minus fifteen or so, practically Caribbean.

One or two of us have our first alcoholic drink in what seems ages. I buy Pasang a whisky which is his favourite tipple, but I can't remember the name. It would not compete with Balvenie 15 Year Old Single Barrel, but it warmed my insides and that was good enough.